MARKET 5: BRITISH
Q: How big is the catering operation at the Olympics?
The world’s eye is fixed squarely on the London Olympics this week and while the weather has been mixed and the Badminton players suspect, the quality of the games overall has been exceptional. Beyond the individual sports, British culture is also in the limelight, so to capture the Olympic Spirit this week we are sharing our Market 5 for British cuisine. There is much more to British cuisine than Bangers ‘n Mash and to highlight the versatility of these everyday (and often overlooked) kitchen staples, I have included some world class recipes from some of Britain’s best Chefs.
1. PARSNIP:
While Don Burke may have controversially called parsnips an “affront to human dignity”, there are many Brits who couldn’t imagine a Sunday roast without them- in fact before the arrival of the potato from the Americas, the parsnip was a staple across Europe. So much so that during the Tudor dynasty, the parsnip was more commonly consumed than bread. Closer to home this cost-effective, nutritious and versatile vegetable is wonderful buying at the markets with quality, flavour and supply at its peak until October. For more information on parsnip selection and availability, please click here.
Host Nation inspiration: Chris Horridge’s Veal sweetbreads, parsnip air and curry oil
2. ENGLISH SPINACH:
Spinach first appeared in England in the 14th century and was adopted quickly due to its availability in early spring when other vegetables were scarce. Spinach was brought to Australia by the first fleet but as it was difficult to grow here, Silverbeet soon became the crop of choice. Today many still refer to Silverbeet as Spinach in Australia for this reason. At its best until September-October, Spinach is a tasty, healthy addition to the menu, especially while other leaf lines are battling with frosty conditions.
Availability: all year, best Mar-Sept
Appearance: bright green, slightly crinkled, flat leaves on a firm green stem
Flavour: bittersweet- finer in texture and flavour than silverbeet
Best for: suitable for eating raw, blanched, braised
Host Nation inspiration: Adam Gray’s Spinach soup with wild garlic toasts
3. RHUBARB:
Rhubarb is yet another ingredient that isn’t native to Britain, yet it is strongly linked to the national cuisine due to its popular use in desserts and wine making prior to WW2. In the United Kingdom, the first rhubarb of the year is harvested by candlelight in forcing sheds, where all other light is excluded, in order to produce a sweeter, more tender stalk. In Australia. Our rhubarb season peaks during Autumn-Winter, so now is the time to enjoy this tart vegetable at its best. For more information on selection or availability of rhubarb click here.
Host Nation inspiration: Nathan Outlaw’s Rhubarb and crumble trifle
4. LEEK:
The leek brings a Celtic flavour to the celebrations. As one of the National emblems of Wales, this humble vegetable root has a proud history in Britain and is currently enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Brought to Australia on the first fleet, the leek is used widely in Australia with most production coming out of Victoria and an annual production value of over $16 million in 2007/2008. While it is grown commercially in other states across Australia, Victoria’s cooler temperatures allow for a top quality, consistent harvest over a longer period.
Appearance: long thick white stalk with hard green leaves
Flavour: mild sweet, onion flavour
Best for: commonly used insoups (cock-a-leekie), stock, stews and other dishes, they can also be boiled, fried or eaten raw in salads
Host Nation inspiration: Martin Wishart’s Leeks vinaigrette with eggs mimosa
5. PEAS:
Growing up in Manchester there was nothing I liked more than mushy peas- popular across Northern Britain (Scotland/Yorkshire etc) this signature dish has become synonymous with stereotypical English fare- in particular meat pies and fish ‘n chips. Realistically peas shouldn’t be featuring in our Market Five as they are very expensive at the moment (due to cold snaps in QLD slowing supply) however we couldn’t help by include this British classic on our list. Prices should ease over the coming month as the weather warms up, in the meantime Sugarsnaps are performing well and are a good substitute.
Availability: generally all year
Appearance: round green seeds in a long green pod
Flavour: sweet, juicy
Best for: mushy peas- other than this they aretasty raw or cooked- often used in soups, risottos, pastas, salads, sides
Host Nation inspiration: Nathan Outlaw’s Ham hock with pea purée and wholemeal bread
A: The Olympics (in this instance London 2012) is recognised as being the largest peacetime catering operation in the world and the Brits have stepped up to the plateas the first Olympic organisers to produce a food vision with a focus on sustainability. Over the course of the Olympic and Paralympic Games, Olympic venues are forecast to serve up 14 million meals across 40 locations. The Olympic Village alone is being supplied with 25,000 loaves of bread, 232 tonnes of potatoes, over 82 tonnes of seafood, 31 tonnes of poultry items, over 100 tonnes of meat, 75,000 litres of milk, 19 tonnes of eggs, 21 tonnes of cheese and more than 330 tonnes of fruit and vegetables. Now that’s a mouthful.
THE ROOT OF THE MATTER
Q: What does Kohlrabi have to do with broccoli?
Ralph Waldo Emerson once said that the “beautiful rests on the foundations of the necessary” and nothing could be truer for the workhorses of the culinary world: root vegetables. Despite their functionality and crude appearance, root vegies are at the core of cuisines worldwide due to their flavour, affordability and nutritional value.
While Winter is the peak season for most root vegetables, Autumn sees early lines of root vegetables arriving at the markets- preparing us for the chilly months and comfort food to come. Here’s some of the more unusual or timely root vegetables to keep an eye out for this Autumn.
POTATOES:
While we have previously explored the most popular taters and their uses (see Boil ‘em, mash ‘em, stick ‘em in a stew post) here’s some strong Autumn varieties.
Burbank aka Idaho
When: All year, best Mar - Dec
How: The chip potato! Though also good for baking and roasting
Kennebec
When: All year, best Jan - Oct
How: Starchy so make great chips but also good mash, boiled, baked or fried
Pontiac:
When: Available all year but good buying at the moment
How: General purpose, though avoid frying. Density means longer cooking time but holds shape well and has minimal discolouration after cooking
Royal Blue:
When: All year, best Feb - Aug
How: All rounder- good cooking variety (roast, mash, chip, salad)
CELERIAC: aka Celery root
Availability: All year, best Mar – late Sept
Appearance: creamy brown solid tuber
Flesh: white
Flavour: rich texture & slightly smoky flavour - cross between celery and parsley
Selection: choose medium size roots that are firm, if the leaves are still attached look for healthy plump stalks
Preparation: Don’t wash until ready to use and peel tough outer layer. Think remoulade, soups, chips, or as a side (boiled, steamed, mashed). Raw they are often grated in salads (use lemon to stop discolouration once cut)
Nutritional value: good dietary fibre and Vitamin C
KOHLRABI: aka Turnip-rooted cabbage, Cabbage Turnip
Availability: early produce at markets now, best Jun - Aug
Appearance: swollen stem at the base of blue/green leaves, stem can be red/light green (white)
Flesh: pale green - creamy white and crispy
Flavour: slightly sweeter than broccoli stems or cabbage heart. White tends to be slightly softer and milder, while red is larger and has a stronger aroma and flavour
Selection: buy med size (larger = woodier). Look for crisp, good colour
Preparation: cut off base, trim stalks. To get the most value and nutrients, cook whole with skin on then peel after cooking. Otherwise, use much like a turnip- lovely raw in salads or roasted/sauted
Nutritional value: very high Vitamin C and potassium
LOTUS ROOT: aka renkon
Availability: Mar – Nov
Appearance: root (rhizome) with reddish brown skin
Flesh: slightly crunchy, white flesh with air holes running the length of the root
Flavour: sweet, crisp (maintains texture when cooked)
Selection: firm, plump and juicy with no soft spots. The darker the root the older it is
Preparation: Peel and go. Can be eaten raw like celery or carrot on a platter or in salads. When cooking it is recommended to blanch prior to cooking to avoid discolouration. Steam, stuff, caramalise, stew, candy or use in a curry or soup
Nutritional value: dietary fibre, Vitamin C, minerals- copper, iron, zinc, magnesium
HORSERADISH:
Availability: Mar - Nov
Appearance: white, tapered root
Flesh: white
Flavour: spicy, pungent nose burn- similar to wasabi or mustard (which are in the family)
Selection: avoid shrivelled or dry roots with soft or green spots
Preparation: fresh roots aren’t pungent but (similar to wasabi) the process of cutting, grating or grinding causes its cells to breakdown and undergo a chemical reaction. This reaction releases oils which provide the pungent aroma and taste. Once prepared, fresh horseradish should be used quickly or it will lose its potency (if left exposed it can also develop a bitter taste)
Nutritional value: antibacterial (good for colds) source of potassium, calcium and magnesium
PARSNIP:
Availability: All Year, best Mar - Oct
Appearance: taproot that looks like a white carrot
Flesh: creamy white
Flavour: sweet yet with a slightly nutty, peppery edge
Selection: pick small to medium size roots (large have a woody core) with a smooth, firm surface
Preparation: Best in dishes with prolonged cooking
Nutritional value: good source of potassium, dietary fibre, vitamin C and niacin
SWEET POTATO: aka kumera
Availability: All year, best May to July
Appearance: long, tapered root with smooth skin that can be white, orange, red or purple
Flesh: can be white, yellow, bright orange or purple.
Flavour: sweet - orange varieties are sweetest due to a higher sugar content
Selection: bright, uniform skin that is clean and smooth with no cracks or bruises
Preparation: can peel or scrub the skin. The options are endless, they can transform into everything from a scone to a chip- while also good raw in salads or coleslaw
Nutritional value: Orange varieties are best for Vitamin C, beta-carotene and dietary fibre, though all are fat free with good Vitamin C, A
TARO
Selection: choose hard, firm tubers heavy for their size
Preparation: use much like you would a potato - bake, roast, chip, fry or boil or chop into soups, curries, casseroles or stews
White:
Availability: May – Jan
Appearance: small- medium tubers with brown to purple/brown skin
Flesh: white
Flavour: somewhere between a potato and a chestnut
Pink: aka Samoan Taro
Availability: Jul - Aug
Appearance: small- medium tubers with brown to purple/brown skin
Flesh: white
Flavour: slightly nutty
Yellow: aka Dasheen
Availability: Jul - Aug
Appearance: large, long tubers with a yellow skin (avoid any with pink skin as this indicates damage)
Flesh: pale yellow
Flavour: nutty, slightly sweet, dryer texture- preferred variety for Polynesian cooking
Japanese: aka Sweet White, Mini Taro
Availability: Jun - Aug
Appearance: mini tubers that grow off the main tuber
Flesh: white
Flavour: sweet, moist – preferred for Asian/Japanese cuisine
JICAMA: aka Yam Bean, Mexican water chestnut
Availability: Jun - Dec
Appearance: tan coloured tuber
Flesh: white and crunchy
Flavour: crisp and sweet (cross between an apple and a potato)- high water content
Selection: medium size, firm with dry roots
Preparation: Use like apple or pear in salads (grated/chopped) as it won’t discolour. Can be used like a water chestnut in Asian dishes or chopped into stews or soups.
Nutritional value: very good source of Potassium, dietary fibre and Vitamin C
A: Believe it or not, they are related. They both belong to the species Brassica Oleracea, which also lays claim to Brussels Sprouts, Chinese Broccoli, Broccoflower, Collard Greens, Cauliflower, Cabbage and Kale. All deriving from Wild Cabbage, these strikingly different vegetables (in both appearance and flavour) have been deliberately shaped into their current forms through thousands of years of careful cultivation by humans.
AUTUMN HARVEST
Q: How long is the rain likely to last?
Summer is officially gone and with it go the luscious stonefruits, berries and tomatoes that characterise Sydney’s summer menus. So what can we expect from Autumn 2012?
Sydney’s tropical (read: rainy) summer has taken its toll on local produce (especially ground grown crops- herbs, asian vegetables, tomatoes) however consistent supply from interstate has managed to keep the markets relatively stable. Unfortunately, we are now starting to see poor weather impact interstate products and if the rain continues we can expect to see quality and price issues across the board.
On a positive note all this wet weather has brought the elusive Pine Mushrooms to the markets early, not to mention apple, pears, exotic fruits , cabbage lines and root veg are all looking relatively consistent and are good eating.
AUTUMN FLAVOURS:
APPLES/PEARS/QUINCE:
New season apples, pears and quince are abundant in Autumn with almost all varieties of apple and pear available over the course of the season.
Supply: Expected to be consistent bar a significant storms or hail in the growing regions
Inspiration: Vogue Entertaining + Travel’s Spiced Quince and Pears with baked custard
BEANS:
Beans are a staple of Autumn, with Borlotti, Butter, French, Green, Roman and Snake making an appearance.
Supply: With the rains in QLD/Nth QLD this week the market for beans has turned dramatically with supply very tight and price jumping significantly. With supply directly influenced by the weather we hope to see supply and price improve as the weather clears.
Inspiration: Teage Ezard’s Barbecued ox tongue with southern gold potatoes, snake beans and sticky mustard dressing recipe
CABBAGE:
Hitting the markets earlier than usual, cabbage lines – chinese wombok, red cabbage, Tuscan cabbage – fill the gap left by the slowing lettuce lines.
Supply: Hardier than other ground grown crops, supply should remain consistent. However excessive rain or flooding may cause splitting and as a result supply issues
Inspiration: Jacques Reymond’s Spatchcock & Buttered Cabbage with verjus
EXOTIC FRUITS:
Filling the void of the lush mangoes and berries come the passionfruit, custard apples, breadfruit, persimmon, guava and pomegranates & tamarillos
Supply: Some issues with guava supply at the moment but otherwise looking steady for the season ahead
Inspiration: Kim Woodward’s Butter roasted halibut, lobster salad, coriander pasta and passion fruit sauce
NUTS:
Autumn also sees the return of the fresh nuts- with Australian grown pistachios (NOW), almonds (Feb-Mar), Hazelnuts (Feb-Apr), Peanuts (Feb-June) and Chestnuts (Apr- Jul) on the scene!
Supply: When they hit the markets, they hit in force- though they finish all too quickly
Inspiration: Peter Gilmore’s Caramelised Vanilla Brioche French toast
PUMPKIN:
I recently read a quote that said there were four seasons, Spring, Summer, Pumpkin and Winter. With all lines including Butternut on offer in Autumn, who can blame them.
Supply: Sourced locally, pumpkins are traditionally abundant and great eating for the whole season
Inspiration: Rick Stein’s Pumpkin ravioli with sage butter
ROOT VEG:
Autumn sees the root veg come into their own with sweet potatoes, horseradish, turnip, parsnip and spud varieties (Royal Blue, Ruby Lou, Pontiac, Desiree, Burbank, Purple Congo) all coming into their own.
Supply: While supply should remain consistent, root veg are susceptible to splitting and rot with too much rain – so lets hope for some clear skies.
Inspiration: Bar H’s Sashimi of striped trumpeter with mushrooms and ginger, horseradish and soy dressing
More produce highlights for Autumn: Pine Mushrooms, Celeriac, Fennel, Leeks, Spinach and Silverbeet
A: Unfortunately it may last a while yet. The Bureau of Meteorology is predicting a wetter autumn than average for NSW and SA and a slightly drier season for VIC and TAS. There is a silver lining however, with the BOM describing their outlook model as having ‘low skill over South East NSW’ at this time of year! So you never know, blue skies could be just around the corner.