THE ROOT OF THE MATTER
Q: What does Kohlrabi have to do with broccoli?
Ralph Waldo Emerson once said that the “beautiful rests on the foundations of the necessary” and nothing could be truer for the workhorses of the culinary world: root vegetables. Despite their functionality and crude appearance, root vegies are at the core of cuisines worldwide due to their flavour, affordability and nutritional value.
While Winter is the peak season for most root vegetables, Autumn sees early lines of root vegetables arriving at the markets- preparing us for the chilly months and comfort food to come. Here’s some of the more unusual or timely root vegetables to keep an eye out for this Autumn.
POTATOES:
While we have previously explored the most popular taters and their uses (see Boil ‘em, mash ‘em, stick ‘em in a stew post) here’s some strong Autumn varieties.
Burbank aka Idaho
When: All year, best Mar - Dec
How: The chip potato! Though also good for baking and roasting
Kennebec
When: All year, best Jan - Oct
How: Starchy so make great chips but also good mash, boiled, baked or fried
Pontiac:
When: Available all year but good buying at the moment
How: General purpose, though avoid frying. Density means longer cooking time but holds shape well and has minimal discolouration after cooking
Royal Blue:
When: All year, best Feb - Aug
How: All rounder- good cooking variety (roast, mash, chip, salad)
CELERIAC: aka Celery root
Availability: All year, best Mar – late Sept
Appearance: creamy brown solid tuber
Flesh: white
Flavour: rich texture & slightly smoky flavour - cross between celery and parsley
Selection: choose medium size roots that are firm, if the leaves are still attached look for healthy plump stalks
Preparation: Don’t wash until ready to use and peel tough outer layer. Think remoulade, soups, chips, or as a side (boiled, steamed, mashed). Raw they are often grated in salads (use lemon to stop discolouration once cut)
Nutritional value: good dietary fibre and Vitamin C
KOHLRABI: aka Turnip-rooted cabbage, Cabbage Turnip
Availability: early produce at markets now, best Jun - Aug
Appearance: swollen stem at the base of blue/green leaves, stem can be red/light green (white)
Flesh: pale green - creamy white and crispy
Flavour: slightly sweeter than broccoli stems or cabbage heart. White tends to be slightly softer and milder, while red is larger and has a stronger aroma and flavour
Selection: buy med size (larger = woodier). Look for crisp, good colour
Preparation: cut off base, trim stalks. To get the most value and nutrients, cook whole with skin on then peel after cooking. Otherwise, use much like a turnip- lovely raw in salads or roasted/sauted
Nutritional value: very high Vitamin C and potassium
LOTUS ROOT: aka renkon
Availability: Mar – Nov
Appearance: root (rhizome) with reddish brown skin
Flesh: slightly crunchy, white flesh with air holes running the length of the root
Flavour: sweet, crisp (maintains texture when cooked)
Selection: firm, plump and juicy with no soft spots. The darker the root the older it is
Preparation: Peel and go. Can be eaten raw like celery or carrot on a platter or in salads. When cooking it is recommended to blanch prior to cooking to avoid discolouration. Steam, stuff, caramalise, stew, candy or use in a curry or soup
Nutritional value: dietary fibre, Vitamin C, minerals- copper, iron, zinc, magnesium
HORSERADISH:
Availability: Mar - Nov
Appearance: white, tapered root
Flesh: white
Flavour: spicy, pungent nose burn- similar to wasabi or mustard (which are in the family)
Selection: avoid shrivelled or dry roots with soft or green spots
Preparation: fresh roots aren’t pungent but (similar to wasabi) the process of cutting, grating or grinding causes its cells to breakdown and undergo a chemical reaction. This reaction releases oils which provide the pungent aroma and taste. Once prepared, fresh horseradish should be used quickly or it will lose its potency (if left exposed it can also develop a bitter taste)
Nutritional value: antibacterial (good for colds) source of potassium, calcium and magnesium
PARSNIP:
Availability: All Year, best Mar - Oct
Appearance: taproot that looks like a white carrot
Flesh: creamy white
Flavour: sweet yet with a slightly nutty, peppery edge
Selection: pick small to medium size roots (large have a woody core) with a smooth, firm surface
Preparation: Best in dishes with prolonged cooking
Nutritional value: good source of potassium, dietary fibre, vitamin C and niacin
SWEET POTATO: aka kumera
Availability: All year, best May to July
Appearance: long, tapered root with smooth skin that can be white, orange, red or purple
Flesh: can be white, yellow, bright orange or purple.
Flavour: sweet - orange varieties are sweetest due to a higher sugar content
Selection: bright, uniform skin that is clean and smooth with no cracks or bruises
Preparation: can peel or scrub the skin. The options are endless, they can transform into everything from a scone to a chip- while also good raw in salads or coleslaw
Nutritional value: Orange varieties are best for Vitamin C, beta-carotene and dietary fibre, though all are fat free with good Vitamin C, A
TARO
Selection: choose hard, firm tubers heavy for their size
Preparation: use much like you would a potato - bake, roast, chip, fry or boil or chop into soups, curries, casseroles or stews
White:
Availability: May – Jan
Appearance: small- medium tubers with brown to purple/brown skin
Flesh: white
Flavour: somewhere between a potato and a chestnut
Pink: aka Samoan Taro
Availability: Jul - Aug
Appearance: small- medium tubers with brown to purple/brown skin
Flesh: white
Flavour: slightly nutty
Yellow: aka Dasheen
Availability: Jul - Aug
Appearance: large, long tubers with a yellow skin (avoid any with pink skin as this indicates damage)
Flesh: pale yellow
Flavour: nutty, slightly sweet, dryer texture- preferred variety for Polynesian cooking
Japanese: aka Sweet White, Mini Taro
Availability: Jun - Aug
Appearance: mini tubers that grow off the main tuber
Flesh: white
Flavour: sweet, moist – preferred for Asian/Japanese cuisine
JICAMA: aka Yam Bean, Mexican water chestnut
Availability: Jun - Dec
Appearance: tan coloured tuber
Flesh: white and crunchy
Flavour: crisp and sweet (cross between an apple and a potato)- high water content
Selection: medium size, firm with dry roots
Preparation: Use like apple or pear in salads (grated/chopped) as it won’t discolour. Can be used like a water chestnut in Asian dishes or chopped into stews or soups.
Nutritional value: very good source of Potassium, dietary fibre and Vitamin C
A: Believe it or not, they are related. They both belong to the species Brassica Oleracea, which also lays claim to Brussels Sprouts, Chinese Broccoli, Broccoflower, Collard Greens, Cauliflower, Cabbage and Kale. All deriving from Wild Cabbage, these strikingly different vegetables (in both appearance and flavour) have been deliberately shaped into their current forms through thousands of years of careful cultivation by humans.
ESCAPE TO THE TROPICS
Q: Have exotic fruits been impacted by the recent rain?
With stonefruit winding up over the next few weeks and melons suffering with the rain, you can be forgiven for thinking that there is little inspiration when it comes to fruit this Autumn. Luckily, we have some of the world’s most interesting fruits waiting at the markets, ready to bring exotic colours and flavours to your Autumn menu.
CARAMBOLA: Star Fruit, 5 corner, Bilimbing, Yang Tao
Availability: Available all year- peak production April/May, Jul/Oct, Dec/Jan
Shape: distinctive 5 wings
Skin: waxy green-yellow
Flesh: transparent- yellow to white
Flavour: crisp, juicy - sweet (yellow) to slightly tart (green). The edges/tips of the wings have the most acid/tannins and are therefore the most astringent
Selection: firm bright fruit with clean, waxy skin
Preparation: can be eaten fresh - slicing achieves the distinctive star shape for platters, salads, desserts and seafood dishes
CUSTARD APPLE: aka Atemoya, Cherimoya
Availability: March - September (peak - May/June)
Shape: heart shaped with nodules
Skin: green - yellow smooth skin
Flesh: creamy white - yellow
Flavour: rich, juicy and sweet
Selection: bruise easily therefore buy when still hard to touch and ripen over 2-3 days. Ripe fruit is light green-yellow with pale yellow skin between the nodules, it should yield to gentle pressure (like an avocado)
Preparation: slice in half and scoop out flesh to enjoy raw or alternatively use in ice-cream, sorbet, desserts, cakes or as a soothing accompaniment to spicy dishes
DRAGON FRUIT: aka Pitaya, Pitahaya
Availability: October - April (Red), All Year (White)
Shape: large oval (150-600g)
Skin: pink - red with fleshy green scales
Flesh: there are two varieties, red or white flesh both with lots of tiny edible black seeds
Flavour: crisp, refreshing, sweet flavour- White has kiwi/melon undertones, Red a hint of raspberry
Selection: look for bright fruit that gives slightly under pressure
Preparation: chill then slice in half and scoop out flesh to enjoy raw or use can be used in marmalades, jellies or drinks
MANGOSTEEN:
Availability: February to April
Shape: round, slightly flat on top
Skin: reddish purple - black
Flesh: white - creamy pink
Flavour: juicy, with subtle, sweet flavour with a hint of acid
Selection: mangosteens don’t ripen after harvest so buy mature fruit with no significant imperfections of the skin. A healthy green steam indicates freshness, the skin should yield slightly under gentle pressure
Preparation: either place fruit in palm of hand (stem up) and press gently until shell opens or cut carefully round the skin effectively ‘removing the cap’ of the fruit
NB: Yellow mangosteens do sometimes come to the markets. Deep yellow when mature and similar in size to a mandarin, they are frequently sour and should be prepared differently
PERSIMMON:
There are two types of Persimmon, the traditional ‘Astringent’ variety and the ‘Sweet’ variety. Sweet Persimmon introduced in the ‘70s now accounts for approx. 70% of Persimmon production
Availability: late February - June
Preparation: discard stem and enjoy, handle carefully
Astringent Persimmon:
Shape: large, heart shape
Skin: orange
Flesh: orange
Flavour: when mature they are very sweet however very unpleasant if eaten too early
Selection: Buy firm, then allow to ripen until the flesh is soft and jelly-like
Sweet Persimmon: aka Fuji Fruit, Fuyu Fruit
Shape: round with a somewhat flat top
Skin: orange
Flesh: orange
Flavour: mild, sweet flavour
Selection: Should be bought when crisp and crunchy. When fresh, best enjoyed like an apple, otherwise can be used when soft/mature in cooking
POMEGRANATE:
Availability: February - May
Shape: round
Skin: thick red - purple
Flesh: white astringent pulp which houses the edible, jelly like, red seeds of the fruit
Flavour: sweet to slightly tart
Selection: bigger (and heavier) is best, as the seeds will be larger and juicier
Preparation: Either cut into segments and peel open to reveal seeds or cut in two, score each half 4-5 times, hold over a bowl and hit the rind until the seeds fall out, dig out any remaining seeds. Seeds will also separate from the pulp easily in water
RAMBUTAN:
Availability: December - May
Shape: oval to oblong (approx 5cm in diameter)
Skin: thick skin covered in soft, spiky hairs that are green when immature and red/scarlet when ripe
Flesh: translucent - white covering a single seed (some varieties are freestone)
Flavour: juicy, sweet with a touch of acid
Selection: buy firm, bright fruit with firm spines (not brittle)
Preparation: delicious fresh (like their kin Lychees/Longans) however can also be used for sorbets/jams. Rambutans are also refresh the palate between dishes
A: Exotic fruits are faring considerably well, though there has been some impact on supply. Of the lines listed above, Mangosteens are currently in shorter supply and up in price, while other lines are showing only minor quality issues.
PACKED TO THE GILLS
Q: What is the largest living organism in the world?
A key sign that local mushrooms are at their peak season, is the arrival of the wild mushrooms at the markets. Mushrooms traditionally flourish following the onset of Autumn rains in Australia and after a wet summer in NSW they are already at the markets and great eating.
AGARICUS BISPORUS:
The most common mushroom variety in Oz, Agaricus mushrooms are commonly sold by developmental stage rather than variety and are available all year round.
BUTTON (aka Champignon):
Youngest stage, it is tightly closed at stem, very firm and has a mild flavour which intensifies with cooking. Picked for stage of development, not size and can outsize cups
Best Use: Firm and hold shape well when cooked, great fresh in salads
CUP:
Most versatile, slightly open at stem to show a little gill, rich flavour and colour
Best use: Very versatile, stuff, slice, dice into soups, casseroles and sauces
FLAT:
Mature mushroom with flat cup and highly visible gills. These have a more intense flavour, meaty texture and rich colour
Best use: Best cooked. Think tempura, tapenades and roasting
There are two strains of Agaricus Bisporus commonly available:
WHITE:
Preferred by supermarkets. White mushrooms are a mutant strain (identified in 1926) that gained popularity due to their clean, fresh look and light mushroom flavour
SWISS BROWN (aka Honey Brown, Roman Brown, Italian Brown, Crimini):
PORTABELLA: aka Portobello, Portabello
The Portabella is a ‘Swiss Brown’ that has matured to the ‘flat’ stage of development. They are large, meaty, earthy and a fantastic substitute for meat on the BBQ
Best use: Grill, roast, BBQ
WILD PINE MUSHROOMS: aka Saffron Milk Caps, Orange Fly Caps
A fleeting Autumn crop, fresh Wild Pine Mushrooms are highly valued by food lovers. Locally produced in pine plantations, these are identifiable by their saffron-light brown cap, gills and short stem. They have a firm texture and a lovely spicy, nut flavour. Be sure to remove stems before use
Best use: When young and tender they are great in fresh pasta and omelettes. As they get older they get tougher, and are best suited to slow cooking in sauces and casseroles
SLIPPERY JACKS:
A late Autumn crop the Slippery Jack is hard to come by but valued for their delicate texture and strong flavour. They have a chestnut-brown cap characterised by its slimy wet appearance and a yellow spongy underside. It is best to peel Slippery Jacks as the slimy cap can cause gastric upset
Best use: Cooked when very fresh. Good for soups, frying or stewing
To get the most of the mushroom season we can only hope the rain eases. For while mushrooms need a good rain to get going, excessive rain can affect quality and in the case of wild varieties prevent access to crops and therefore limit supply.
A: It’s not the blue whale, but rather a Honey Mushroom colony that covers a staggering 8.9km² area of Malheur National Forest in Oregon, USA. Proven to be the same organism through DNA testing, the colony is believed to be over 2,400 years old and still growing. The organism is a parasitic fungus that grows on tree roots and spreads via shoestring like tendrils, it is identifiable by its yellow capped mushrooms and the swathe of dead trees it leaves in its wake.
AUTUMN HARVEST
Q: How long is the rain likely to last?
Summer is officially gone and with it go the luscious stonefruits, berries and tomatoes that characterise Sydney’s summer menus. So what can we expect from Autumn 2012?
Sydney’s tropical (read: rainy) summer has taken its toll on local produce (especially ground grown crops- herbs, asian vegetables, tomatoes) however consistent supply from interstate has managed to keep the markets relatively stable. Unfortunately, we are now starting to see poor weather impact interstate products and if the rain continues we can expect to see quality and price issues across the board.
On a positive note all this wet weather has brought the elusive Pine Mushrooms to the markets early, not to mention apple, pears, exotic fruits , cabbage lines and root veg are all looking relatively consistent and are good eating.
AUTUMN FLAVOURS:
APPLES/PEARS/QUINCE:
New season apples, pears and quince are abundant in Autumn with almost all varieties of apple and pear available over the course of the season.
Supply: Expected to be consistent bar a significant storms or hail in the growing regions
Inspiration: Vogue Entertaining + Travel’s Spiced Quince and Pears with baked custard
BEANS:
Beans are a staple of Autumn, with Borlotti, Butter, French, Green, Roman and Snake making an appearance.
Supply: With the rains in QLD/Nth QLD this week the market for beans has turned dramatically with supply very tight and price jumping significantly. With supply directly influenced by the weather we hope to see supply and price improve as the weather clears.
Inspiration: Teage Ezard’s Barbecued ox tongue with southern gold potatoes, snake beans and sticky mustard dressing recipe
CABBAGE:
Hitting the markets earlier than usual, cabbage lines – chinese wombok, red cabbage, Tuscan cabbage – fill the gap left by the slowing lettuce lines.
Supply: Hardier than other ground grown crops, supply should remain consistent. However excessive rain or flooding may cause splitting and as a result supply issues
Inspiration: Jacques Reymond’s Spatchcock & Buttered Cabbage with verjus
EXOTIC FRUITS:
Filling the void of the lush mangoes and berries come the passionfruit, custard apples, breadfruit, persimmon, guava and pomegranates & tamarillos
Supply: Some issues with guava supply at the moment but otherwise looking steady for the season ahead
Inspiration: Kim Woodward’s Butter roasted halibut, lobster salad, coriander pasta and passion fruit sauce
NUTS:
Autumn also sees the return of the fresh nuts- with Australian grown pistachios (NOW), almonds (Feb-Mar), Hazelnuts (Feb-Apr), Peanuts (Feb-June) and Chestnuts (Apr- Jul) on the scene!
Supply: When they hit the markets, they hit in force- though they finish all too quickly
Inspiration: Peter Gilmore’s Caramelised Vanilla Brioche French toast
PUMPKIN:
I recently read a quote that said there were four seasons, Spring, Summer, Pumpkin and Winter. With all lines including Butternut on offer in Autumn, who can blame them.
Supply: Sourced locally, pumpkins are traditionally abundant and great eating for the whole season
Inspiration: Rick Stein’s Pumpkin ravioli with sage butter
ROOT VEG:
Autumn sees the root veg come into their own with sweet potatoes, horseradish, turnip, parsnip and spud varieties (Royal Blue, Ruby Lou, Pontiac, Desiree, Burbank, Purple Congo) all coming into their own.
Supply: While supply should remain consistent, root veg are susceptible to splitting and rot with too much rain – so lets hope for some clear skies.
Inspiration: Bar H’s Sashimi of striped trumpeter with mushrooms and ginger, horseradish and soy dressing
More produce highlights for Autumn: Pine Mushrooms, Celeriac, Fennel, Leeks, Spinach and Silverbeet
A: Unfortunately it may last a while yet. The Bureau of Meteorology is predicting a wetter autumn than average for NSW and SA and a slightly drier season for VIC and TAS. There is a silver lining however, with the BOM describing their outlook model as having ‘low skill over South East NSW’ at this time of year! So you never know, blue skies could be just around the corner.
BOIL 'EM, MASH 'EM, STICK 'EM IN A STEW
Q: How do you prolong the shelf life of potatoes?
They may be getting a bad rap from peppy, anti-carb personal trainers the world over at the moment, but the humble ‘taiter’ is still one of the most versatile and cost-effective foods on the market. Yet another successful member of the Nightshade family, potatoes are the world’s largest vegetable crop and fourth largest food crop, with over 330 million tonnes produced worldwide in 2009. While consumption varies per region and the latest fad diet, the average global citizen consumes 33kg of the starchy tuber every year.
There are thousands of potato varieties, hundreds of which are edible, with more being developed all the time. Commercial varieties are categorised and bought in a number of ways; whether they are washed or brushed, size, texture and/or specific variety.
Washed potatoes are efficient, no washing on site means less man hours and a shiny skin on arrival. The washed potatoes sold by Simon George & Sons are mostly Coliban which is a tasty, all rounder which is available in a variety of sizes. Varieties can vary under the ‘washed’ banner and all potatoes can be pre-washed or peeled on request. Meanwhile, the ever faithful Sebago represents for the ‘dirty brushed’ and ‘chipped’ category. Keeping the dirt on the skin helps protect the potato from moisture and light, which prolongs shelf life and balances the effort involved in washing at a later date.
Size matters when it comes to potatoes. Cocktails and Chat potatoes are bought purely on size, not variety. When you buy these sizes, you can expect washed, all-rounders that have white skin and flesh. The main size classifications you will see for spuds include:
- Large
- Medium (Table)
- Small (Chat)- over 70grams but smaller than medium (table)
- Cocktail Chat - under 70grams, usually 2-3cm in diameter
The texture of the spud is determined by the amount of starch in the potato and therefore directly influences its preparation. Textures range from waxy to floury, with all-rounders falling somewhere in-between:
- Waxy- less starch (16-18%) and higher moisture, therefore best for salads, stews, soups or anything where you want the potato to hold shape
- All Rounder: Are neither definitively waxy or floury and therefore tend to be good for most types of cooking.
- Floury/Starchy: higher starch (20-22%) and less moisture. Release starch when boiled or fried, therefore best for baking in skins and mashing as they fluff up beautifully. If you want to whip up freedom fries or a salad with floury varieties, they will need to be soaked first.
As there are so many different types of potatoes available, we have broken them down into something more palatable:
Needless to say we haven’t included every potato in the list above. Other spud favourites that deserve a mention are:
- Waxy: Patrone, Bintje, Ruby Lou
- All Rounder: Golden Delight, Red Rascal, Spunta, Toolangi Delight
- Floury: Russet Burbank, Kennebec
To discuss these and other tasty potato varieties, contact Simon George & Sons on (02) 9519 1411.
A: Potatoes are a demanding lot when it comes to storage. To maximise shelf life and ensure they don’t darken when cooking, they should be stored in a cool (not cold), dry, dark environment with good airflow and no onions! (When onions and potatoes are stored together, they release gases that can cause rot.) Check stock regularly and remove any that are soft, shrivelled or sprouting, like bad apples they will taint the lot.
Also, watch for ‘greening’. To maximise the tubers chance of producing more potato plants, they contain low levels of toxic chemicals (glycoalkaloids) which deter predators from eating the tuber when unearthed. If a potato is exposed to light or damaged, it triggers this protective measure and the production of glycoalkaloids increases. At their most potent in the sprouts, these chemicals can cause anything from food poisoning to death. Green spots on the skin (greening) are a good indicator of light exposure and are therefore a warning sign of toxicity. While all green potatoes won’t kill you, it’s best to toss them.
THE PITS
Q: Where does our Stonefruit come from?
The Australian stone fruit season is underway with early season peaches, nectarines and cherries now available.
Drupes (stone fruits) are fleshy fruits whose seed is encased in a stone at its centre- peaches, nectarines, cherries, plums, apricots (and almonds) all belong to this family. Stone fruit can be broken down into; clingstone, freestone or semi-cling fruits. It is difficult to tell from the appearance of the fruit whether it’s a clinger or a free spirit, so ask your supplier to confirm which they have in stock.
Clingstone:
Stone clings to the fruit at all stages of maturity and needs to be pried off. Good eating but more time consuming to prepare. Best for: jams, jellies, sauces, purees.
Freestone (Slipstone):
Flesh separates easily from the stone allowing for attractive slices to be produced. Freestone are the most popular varieties. Best for: any dish where the appearance of the fruit is important
Semi-cling:
A hybrid of clingstone and freestone, the stone separates from the pit when fully ripe. Tend to be smaller than freestone. Best for: everything, good all-rounder
Peaches and nectarines are the first stone fruits to hit the markets in summer, so here’s the low down on the much loved Persian Apple and its shaved fraternal twin.
Despite the rather common belief that the nectarine is a cross between a peach and a plum, peaches and nectarines are actually the same species. A nectarine is really just a peach whose recessive gene came up trumps in the DNA lottery.
As there are a vast number of peach and nectarine varieties produced in Australia (often with a very short season), it is common practice to group them by the colour of their flesh (i.e. yellow or white) rather than listing the individual variety.
PEACHES:
Yellow flesh:
Most popular varieties in Australia, yellow flesh are usually the first peaches on the market. Tangy and tasty. Availability: September – March
White Flesh:
Season starts slightly later than yellow flesh varieties, though there is an early variety available in October. With less sub-acid varieties, these tend to be a juicy, sweet alternative. Availability: October- March
NECTARINES:
Yellow Flesh:
These have always been more common, though recently white flesh have closed the gap. A mix of sweet and light acid flavours. Availability: November – March
White Flesh:
Hold the acid, these are sweet and fragrant. Availability: November to March
To get the juices flowing, here are some tasty stone fruit recipes from entrée to dessert:
Peach Chicken, lemon rice pilaf:
A: Approximately 100,000 tonnes of summer stonefruit is produced between October and April each year, by over 1200 growers. Early season produce comes from sub-tropical QLD (20% of total production), northern WA and NSW. This is then followed by crops from mid to southern NSW, parts of VIC (Swan Hill) and the Riverland of SA. Fruit from the cooler climates is last to market. Renmark, Swan Hill and the Goulburn Valley (Shepparton and Cobram) represent more than 50% of Australia’s summer stonefruit production, while Tasmania produces all the Australian-grown apricots harvested in mid January to February. Source: Summerfruit Australia
AUSTRALIAN GARLIC
Q: How do I get that rich, pungent garlic flavour?
The first boxes of Australian Garlic are appearing at the Sydney Markets and though the season wont be in full swing for another 3-4 weeks, it is a welcome sight for chefs and foodies.
Garlic was introduced to Australia by early European migrants and in the 70s and 80s the local industry was growing steadily. This changed in the 1990s when cheap Chinese garlic begin to flood the Australian market and despite its smaller size and significantly lower quality, it hamstringed local farmers who couldn’t compete on price. Nowadays, local product accounts for only 10-20% of the garlic consumed in Australia, a very small piece of a big garlicky pie, with Australians putting away approximately 3,500 tonnes of fresh garlic each year.
Recently there has been a renewed interest in sourcing locally grown garlic due to its freshness and fuller flavour. To allow for import, garlic produced overseas is treated with various chemical pesticides and growth retardants. Between these treatments and the time it takes to reach our shores, imported garlic tends to have a less intense flavour and spongy texture.
The Australian garlic season runs from October to May with the main growing regions being SA, VIC ,NSW with some early crops from QLD.
There are a number of white, pink and purple garlic varieties available which can be grouped into either the hard or soft necked categories. Soft necked varieties are stalkless with large bulbs. The most common varieties, their flavour ranges from very mild to very hot and lack the subtle but more complex flavors of the hardneck varieties. Hard-necked varieties have a hard stalk, are smaller than soft-necked varieties and have fewer but larger cloves that are easier to peel.
There is a lot of confusion in the market over the names of garlic varieties being produced in Australia, but here are some of the more widely recognizable varieties.
Printanor:
When: Mid Season
What: Soft neck originally from France, this is now one of the most popular varieties in Australia and NZ. Medium to large, it is white with 15-20 cloves per bulb. Stores well and has a rich flavour
Australian White:
When: Mid Season
What: Californian type, large white bulb and cloves- selected in SA
California Late:
When: Late Season
What: Soft neck variety from cooler states- stores well. Dark pink skin with large bulb and lots of small cloves
Italian White:
When: Mid Season
What: Older soft neck variety that is medium to large and white-cream. It stores well and has 10-20 cloves
Italian Pink:
When: Early season
What: Medium sized hard-neck variety with thin pink-purple skin. Stores well.
Elephant/Russian Garlic:
When: Mid-Late Season
What: Not a true garlic, this is closer to a leek and has a mild flavour. It has a large solid bulb and can be baked/roasted and included in a dish whole.
Mouliner:
When:Mid Season
What: Large white bulbs that are quite symmetrical, many predict this will soon be nipping at the heels of Printanor
Glenlarge:
When: Early Season
What: Hard necked QLD selection with well-formed white bulbs that have a slight purple tinge. 6-12 cloves per bulb.
TRENDS TO WATCH:
Spring Garlic: (Available October)
Flavour: Mild garlic taste
Use: Entire plant. Just trim root ends and the tough parts of the green leaves.
Background: Harvested before the bulb is formed. Look for specimens with fresh green tops (no dried ends or soggy leaves).
Green Garlic: (Available November)
Flavour: Mild- stronger than green onion but milder than mature garlic
Use: Entire bulb- skin and all. Just trim root ends and the tough parts of the green leaves.
Background: Green garlic is pulled prematurely when the stalk is fully green and the bulb has only a hint of cloves.
Garlic Shoots:
Flavour: Mild garlic flavour, less pungent.
Use: Edible part is the stem, used in stir fries, soups or as a garnish
Background: Usually imported into Australia. These should be 10-20cm long and have no sign of bulb swelling
A: The key to a rich garlic flavour is freshness. Similarly to wasabi, the flavour and aroma of garlic is caused by the chemical reaction that takes place when its cells are broken down. This flavour is at its most intense shortly after the reaction takes place, therefore it is best not to prepare garlic too far in advance.
Different methods of cooking also influence the flavour of garlic. To achieve an intense garlic taste, the maximum amount of oil needs to be released; therefore pressing, crushing and mincing are the best means of preparation to get this result. Meanwhile, chopping is good for stir fries and slicing is good for bringing that light garlic flavour to your dish.
KING OF FRUITS
Q: How do I make sure to get a kingly mango?
Each year Sydney eagerly awaits the tell-tale signs that summer is on its way; daylight savings, backpackers, streaky fake tans and last but not least the arrival of the mangoes.
For many Australians the mango is the taste of summer. As a versatile tropical fruit, the mango brings an instant flavour and colour hit to every dish, whether it be a salad, curry or tasty snack such as this Mango, lime and chilli salt recipe from Gourmet Traveller.
Australia produces approximately 45,000 tonnes of mangoes a year with the Sunshine State (QLD) taking the mantle of top producer at 72% of the total market. The potential for growth however has seen regions such as the NT increase their production dramatically, with NT now accounting for 23% of production. Currently 90% of the commercial crop in Australia is Kensington Pride, though new varieties such as Calypso™, R2E2 and Honey Gold™ are increasing in popularity amongst growers and consumers.
Here’s what to expect from your mangoes this season.
Kensington Pride (aka Bowen)
Appearance: Medium sized, oval fruit with orange skin tinged with pink/red and gold flesh
Flavour: Sweet, tangy
Background: The main mango variety in Australia, it was originally grown in Bowen, QLD in the 1960s after being introduced by horse traders dealing with India. The name Kensington was a reference to the name of the farm upon which one of the pioneers of the variety, Harry Lott, grew his fruit.
R2E2
Appearance: Round, large fruit with deep orange skin and a light yellow flesh
Flavour: Mild and sweet.
Background: A seedling derivative of the Kent, the R2E2 was first released for commercial production in 1991 and takes its name from the row and position of the original tree at the DEEDI´s Bowen Research Station. This variety is gaining popularity due to its long shelf life and high flesh to seed ratio
Calypso™
Appearance: Smooth deep orange skin with firm, fibreless flesh
Flavour: Full sweet flavour- good for salads
Background: A recent addition to the mango varieties in Oz, the Calypso™ is a cross between the Kensington Pride and Sensational varieties. The high flesh to seed ratio and good shelf life make this a cost effective option for chefs
Keitt (aka Condo Mango)
Appearance: Medium to large, thick skin with green base colour and pink to bronze blush
Flavour: Sweet orange flesh with no fibre and a mild lemony taste
Background: Finding its feet in the 80s in Australia, the Keitt is now a top four performer. Keitt received its name from the name of the woman who owned its original plantation .
Honey Gold™
Appearance: When ripe the skin is golden apricot yellow with a natural waxy coating
Flavour: Sweet, aromatic and juicy. Firm, fibreless flesh
Background: The Honey Gold™ was cultivated in Rockhampton, when a Kensington Pride flower was inadvertently cross-pollinated with an unknown mango variety.
Palmer
Appearance: Small to medium sized, elongated fruit with a dark red blush that covers most of the skin
Flavour: Sweet and mild, the flesh is juicy and aromatic- similar to Kensington Pride
Background: A small player in the Australian Mango industry the Palmer accounts for only 5% of total production, despite being grown commercially in QLD for over a decade.
Pearl™
Appearance: Smaller mango with flecked skin that has an orange to red blush
Flavour: Tangy and fresh
Background: Considered a good mango for the kitchen despite being smaller than other varieties, due to its high flesh to seed ratio, long shelf life and firm flesh.
Brooks
Appearance: Medium-size oblong with no beak and a pale pink-orange skin with no blush when ripe
Flavour: Sweet, mild flesh
Background: One of the original Florida cultivars, Brooks- also known as Brooks Late, is a mango variety that originated as a seedling of Sandersha in 1901. Brooks is the latest maturing variety in Australia.
Kent
Appearance: Medium to large oval, skin is smooth with a red blush that borders on purple
Flavour: Rich and sweet- great for juicing and drying
Background: Another descendant of Brooks (crossed with the Haden variety), the Kent mango was introduced to Australia in the 1970s.
FRESH MANGO AVAILABILITY:
Source: Australia Fresh
Bring the flavour of summer to your menu, contact Simon George & Sons for more information.
A: Unlike many other fruits, you can’t tell the quality of a mango by the colour of its skin. Instead select mangoes that are firm and heavy for their size with a distinct, pleasant fragrance. The skin should be bright with no black spots or mushy indentations. If you want to eat the mango right away, gently squeeze the stem end with your finger and thumb, if it gives slightly, then the fruit is ripe. Unripe mangoes will ripen if stored at room temperature. Once ripe, you can prolong the shelf life of the mango by placing it in the refrigerator, where it will keep for 2-3 days.
MAKE FRIENDS WITH SALAD
Q: What makes a salad, a salad?
Simon George & Sons knows how to make friends with salad. Our new range of ‘fine’ salad mixes from Victorian supplier, Hussey & Co offer chefs a convenient salad base that is tender, colourful and packed full of flavour. The finer leaves make it possible to deliver a salad with the full complement of flavours and a gourmet look, no matter how small the serving.
FINE ASIAN MIX: (Mizuna, Mibuna, Tatsoi)
The Asian Mix is a fantastic staple for the kitchen. The Japanese leaves deliver mild mustard, peppery flavours while the Tatsoi adds a creamy texture. Many chefs customize this mix by tossing through various hydroponics.
FINE MESCLUN MIX: (Red and Green lettuce lines, little mustard and curly leaves)
At only 5 or 6 cm, the leaves in this mix enable you to offer a full salad experience in one handful. With up to 16 varieties this mix is a flavour hit.
FINE SWISS CHARD:
At it’s peak over the next two months, the fine chard mix is delicious, colourful and fresh.
SNOW PEA TENDRILS:
These tendrils have a stunningly delicate appearance and a lovely crunchy texture. Boasting a subtle pea flavour, they can be used in either a salad mix or to dress a dish
ARUGULA ROCKET:
While many chefs opt for the stronger heat of Wild Rocket, Arugula is fast gaining popularity with those seeking a milder pepper hit, tender leaves and a softer look on the plate
According to history, it’s the dressing. The word ‘salad’ originally derived from the Latin ‘salata’ or salted things, which refers to the practice of eating raw vegetables dressed with salt, oil and/or vinegar.