BUYER'S GUIDE: 19th Jun-25th Jun
The cooler weather has slowed down supply of some products, mainly Honeydews, Tomatoes and Strawberries. Quality is sound, just up in price slightly this week.
Overall the market is in good shape, with plenty to choose from.
Highlights: Australian Truffles Season is up and running and USA cherries Cumquats are on the markets also.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit: Cherries (Imp- USA) * Delicious Apples- med (VIC) * Panama Passionfruit * Pineapple (QLD) * Ruby blush grapefruit (WA)
Vegetable: Brussel sprouts (VIC) * Kipfler Potatoes * Mesclun Lettuce* Red capsicum (QLD) * Silverbeet (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit: Blood Limes (NSW) * Honey Pears * Pink Lady Apples (VIC) * Pomello - red (QLD) * Starfruit- aka Carambola (QLD)
Vegetable: Broad bean (NSW) * Green Peas ( QLD) * Truffles - superior black (WA - new season) * Witlof - white
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply: Baby gold beetroot * Chestnut Mushroom * Snow Peas - expensive * Yellow Zucchini
Not Available: Blood Oranges
IN THE FINEST TRADITION
Q: What is the oldest recipe collection in the world?
It seems that wherever you turn at the moment, Europe is on the tip of everyone’s tongue. Whether it's the Euro versus the dollar, the babushkas performance at Eurovision or the early morning Euro 2012 matches - European Culture is well and truly on the agenda in Australia. So without further ado, this week we're featuring traditional dishes from the hot contenders at the Euro 2012’s competition and celebrating the fresh produce that makes them odds on favourites.
GERMANY
Red Cabbage:
Availability: all year, best Mar – May
Appearance: compact head of smooth red-purple leaves with small white veins
Selection: choose heads that are heavy for size, with crisp, bright leaves
Prep: when cooking add lemon or vinegar to water to protect colour, beware of colour bleeding into other ingredients
Traditional dish: ROTKOHL (sweet & sour red cabbage) - often served with winter dishes such as beef in buttermilk
Modern inspiration: Mustard and sage pork cutlets with red wine cabbage and lentils
SPAIN:
Tomatoes (Heirloom):
Availability: all year, fluctuates
Appearance: compact head of smooth red-purple leaves with small white veins
Selection: choose heads that are heavy for size, with crisp, bright leaves
Prep: when cooking add lemon or vinegar to water to protect colour, beware of colour bleeding into other ingredients
Traditional dish: GAZPACHO – raw vegetable soup served cold
Modern inspiration: Hand-pounded Gazpacho
FRANCE:
Aubergine: aka eggplant
Availability: all year, best Jan - Jul
Appearance: smooth purple fruit- pear shaped with glossy skin
Selection: look for firm, glossy, bright, skin. Should feel heavy for size.
Prep: highly versatile, can be sauteed, baked, roasted, fried, stuffed, stir fried, steamed or grilled
Traditional dish: RATATOUILLE – vegetable dish often used as a side
Modern inspiration: Yotam Ottolenghi's Indian ratatouille recipe
ENGLAND:
Rhubarb:
Availability: all year, best Jun - Dec
Appearance: look likes red celery
Selection: choose stalks that are crisp, firm, glossy and bright
Prep: once leaves are removed, cook and add to pies, crumbles or even slice finely and add to a salad
Traditional dish: RHUBARB & CUSTARD
Modern inspiration: Rhubarb semifreddo and pistachio cream with a honey madeleine
ITALY:
Tuscan Cabbage: aka Black Cabbage or Cavalo Nero
Availability: all year
Appearance: sold in bunches of long dark green leaves. The leaves are heavily bubbled with a thick, white vein from stem to tip
Selection: look for firm, plump stalks and bright, fresh leaves
Prep: traditionally used in soups and pastas or steamed, also a fantastic stir-fry vegetable
Traditional dish: RIBOLITTA: Tuscan Cabbage bread soup
Modern inspiration: Ditalini, borlotti bean and cavolo nero soup
RUSSIA:
Beetroot:
Availability: all year, best during cooler months
Appearance: bright red – deep purple tuber (often has white streaks)
Selection: choose beets that are crisp, firm, glossy and bright- fresh leaves are a good indicator
Prep: rinse in cold water, cook in boiling water, then remove skin
Traditional dish: BORSCHT
Modern Inspiration: Beetroot Soup with fetta
A: While many chefs have heard of ‘De re coquinaria’ (The Art of Cooking by Apicius) there is actually a much older recipe book in the Yale University Collection. The recipes are carved into ancient tablets dating back to approximately 1700BC. Originally believed to be pharmaceutical/medicinal in nature, it was only when successfully deciphered in the mid 80s that they were identified as recipes. Jean Bottero who translated the tablets describes the food as "a cuisine of striking richness, refinement, sophistication and artistry, which is surprising from such an early period. Previously we would not have dared to think a cuisine 4,000 years old was so advanced."
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 12th Jun-18th Jun
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Gai Choy * Kachay
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Banana Buds/Bell * Longans * Tamarillo (gold)
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum * Buddha Hands * Cumquats * Green mangoes * Loquats * Lychee * Rambutan
PLAY THE MARKET
Q: What do SG&S buyers look for in their produce?
The off-peak season has hit Sydney and with the half-way point of the year fast approaching, now is an ideal time to reflect on the year that has been and kick-start your plans for the year to come. In our first bulletin of 2012, I talked about working ‘smarter not harder’ by monitoring the markets and staying a step ahead of fluctuations in both supply and price. Many of you have done just that and participated in one of our guided tours of the Sydney Markets, but for those of you yet to take part or for those seeking further inspiration, we invite you to put yourself in the driver’s seat and join us for an early morning, hands-on exploration of Sydney’s seasonal produce.
These tours enable chefs, procurement managers and other interested parties to experience first-hand how the range, quality and supply of different produce lines fluctuate throughout the year and how this then influences our buyer’s purchasing decisions. We encourage all our clients to take part in a market tour at least once a year, as they not only assist in menu planning, but also help SG&S to stay abreast of the changing needs of your kitchen and ultimately improve the service we provide. To whet the appetite, below are some insights into produce items/classifications that have recently raised interest at our market tours.
POTATOES:
Information on potatoes and best use by variety has to be one of our most ‘Frequently Asked Questions’. With over 66 varieties of tatties commercially grown in Australia, talking directly to the grower/agent, cutting them open and seeing their consistency (floury/waxy etc) can help answer these questions and aid in selection.
PURPLE JESTER:
Availability: Winter crop
Appearance: naturally coloured with the same antioxidants as red grapes, the purple jester has a dark purple skin and bright purple flesh
Characteristics: full potato flavour and aroma
Best for: impact and quality in salads, small baked potato sides etc. Very versatile the purple jester can be baked, roasted, boiled, steamed
POMELOS:
WHITE:
Availability: Mar - Nov
Appearance: light green- yellow thick skin and pale yellow flesh
Characteristics: sweet, mild grapefruit flavour
Best for: fresh consumption
PINK:
Availability: Jun - Nov
Appearance: light green- yellow thick skin and pink flesh
Characteristics: sharper flavour than white variety
Best for: use like a pomegranate in salads or similar dishes
TOMATOES:
Similarly to potatoes there is an abundance of wonderful tomatoes at the markets. With the susceptibility of tomatoes to weather damage however it is helpful to handle and taste different varieties that could substitute for traditional romas or cherries in the kitchen.
HEIRLOOM: Zebrino
Availability: all year
Appearance: small round tomatoes with distinctively striped skin and flesh that varies from a deep green to red-brown
Characteristics: sweet, aromatic flavour
Best for: substitute for cherry tomatoes for high impact colour and a sweet tomato flavour
GOLF BALL: (refers to size rather than variety)
Availability: all year
Appearance: round, red tomato approximately the size of a golf ball
Characteristics: consistent in size, shape, flesh, seeds like a small gourmet tomato
Best for: great as a substitute for Romas and for portion control i.e. breakfast or salad tomato. Also good for roasting whole
BEANS:
As explored in our recent ‘Full of Beans’ bulletin, green beans are sold under classifications of machine picked, hand-picked and baby. Being on site at the markets, inspecting the quality of the beans and sampling their flavour, really is the best way to truly understand these distinctions and which is most suitable to your needs (and budget).
A: Each season the markets see new lines hitting the stands in response to agricultural development and changing culinary tastes, it also sees changing climate conditions and therefore hits and misses from our farmers and their harvests. Every foodservice business is different and as a result each client has individual needs and preferences relating to size, colour, and the maturity of their produce. To meet these needs and stay ahead of the changing market landscape, the buying team at Simon George & Sons works closely with over 400 growers/sellers, filtering through the 2.5 million tonnes of fresh fruit and veges sold at the Sydney Markets each year to source the highest quality produce for our clients at the best possible price.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 5th June - 12th June
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Gai Choy * Thai Basil * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Kachay * Tamarind
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Asian Plum * Cumquats * Green Mangoes * Lychee * Rambutan
BUYER'S GUIDE: 5th June - 12th June
The overall quality on market has improved this week, with most items in good supply and very few shorts or items not available. Tomatoes and Strawberries still have some way to go before they are in their winter mode, however weather permitting this should be in the next week or two. Front runners 'fruit wise' is still the Apples, Pears and Citrus while 'veggie wise' it's Beans, Cauliflowers, Mushrooms & Spuds.
USA Cherries are now in full swing and price is easing weekly. We are stocking the larger Darker Cherry which is slightly more expensive but are the best eating and have the best visual appeal! Smaller fruit is available on request and the price is less.
Truffles: We are waiting for confirmation of our first arrival. The season is looking to be the best since the inception of Truffles Down-under.
Something New: “Samples Available on Request”
- Purple Jester Potatoes- deep purple inside and out
- Russet Burbank Potatoes- great for chipping
- Zebero’s Tomatoes- similar to Black Tigers, available by the punnet
- Heirloom Tomatoes- in good supply
BEST BUYS:
Fruit: Orange- No 2 juicing (NSW) * Packham Pears - green (VIC) * Red Papaya (QLD) * Rockmelon (QLD)
Vegetable: Brussel Sprouts (VIC) * Button Mushrooms (NSW) * Leek - large (TAS) * Potato -washed, large (SA) * Rhubarb (NSW) * Silverbeet (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit: Cherries (Imp- US) * Drinking Coconuts (IMP) * Golden Delicious Apples (VIC) * Honey Pears (VIC) * Red Pommello (QLD) * Strawberries - XL (QLD- New Season)
Vegetable: Asparagus - white (IMP) * Heirloom Tomatoes (NSW) * Mandarins - VIP (QLD) * Royal Blue Potato (TAS)
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply: Chestnut Mushroom * Yellow Butter Bean * Yellow Zucchini
Not Available: Blood Oranges * Purple Asparagus
PUMPKIN PATCH
Q: How did pumpkins become associated with Halloween?
While they may have started out as cattle-fodder, nowadays the pumpkin features widely in kitchens due to their versatility, shelf-life and cost-efficiency. To meet year-round demand pumpkins are grown in every state of Australia, however nigh on three quarters of the pumpkins consumed domestically are produced in NSW or QLD. In 2010 the Food Service industry accounted for around 17% of fresh pumpkin sales, that equates to a healthy 16,743 tonnes.
The fruit (or culinary vegetable) that Australian’s refer to as ‘pumpkins’ are actually a mix of pumpkins and winter squash from three different species of the Cucurbita genus: Cucurbita Maxima (Jarrahdale, Queensland Blue, Golden Nugget), Cucurbita Moschata (Butternut Pumpkin, Jap) and Cucurbita Pepo (Sweet Dumpling, Orange Minikin)
Selection: It is the skin of the pumpkin that protects the wonderful orange flesh from deterioration, so avoid any that are scarred, bruised or cracked. Look for a bright, plump pumpkin that is heavy for its size and boasts a thick, hard rind.
CUCURBITA MAXIMA:
QUEENSLAND BLUE:
Availability: all year
Appearance: big, heavy, ribbed, deep blue-grey skin and orange flesh
Characteristics: drier that other varieties, full flavoured
Best for: scones, boiling or baking
JARRAHDALE:
Availability: all year
Appearance: large round variety with light blue/grey skin and a lovely deep yellow-orange flesh
Characteristics: cuts easily, sweet, firm flesh
Best for: baking – very moist therefore doesn’t lend well to boiling
GOLDEN NUGGET:
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, round pumpkin with orange - red, lightly ribbed skin and bright orange flesh
Characteristics: up to 1.5kg/15cm diameter, easily cut – appearance is its main selling point though it has sweet, creamy flesh
Best for: soup or stuffed as a single serve vessel – high seed ratio if you need roasted pumpkin seeds
CUCURBITA MOSCHATA:
BUTTERNUT PUMPKIN: aka Butternut Squash
Availability: available all year but at best in April, Jul-Aug, Dec-Jan
Appearance: elongated pear shape with smooth, golden-brown skin and orange flesh
Characteristics: dense, dry flesh with a lovely smooth texture and nutty flavour – flavour improves with storage – no need to peel
Best for: everything- especially roasting. Butternut is one of the most popular varieties due to its versatility
JAP: aka Ken Special, Kent, Delica
Availability: all year
Appearance: small mottled green/grey pumpkin (1-3kg), yellow to orange flesh
Characteristics: softer and drier than most, cuts easily and boasts a mild, sweet flavour
Best for: stuff, bake, steam, mash
CUCURBITA PEPO:
SWEET DUMPLING:
Availability: all year
Appearance: small pumpkin with white and green stripes and creamy, firm flesh
Characteristics: mildly sweet, honey nut flavour
Best for: perfect for roasting and stuffing
ORANGE MINIKIN: aka baby pumpkin
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, squat pumpkin, with ribbed, orange skin and yellow-light orange flesh
Characteristics: high seed content, ideal for hollowing and using as a single serve vessel
Best for: baking whole and stuffing with a savoury meat or rice filling – soups or roast the seeds
A: Samhain (All Hallows Eve) was believed to be the day that the souls of the departed (good and bad) were free to roam amongst us. It was Celtish tradition on this day to carve ‘Jack-o-Lanterns’ to both welcome the souls of loved ones and ward off unwelcome spirits. Traditionally Jack-o-lanterns were carved from beets, turnips or potato, however when almost ¾ million people fled to America during the Irish potato famine they brought the tradition but not the beets or gourds to carve. Therefore the pumpkin (native to central and south America) became a larger, easily accessible substitute.
BUYER'S GUIDE: Asian/Exotics 29th May - 5th June
Asian Vegetables: Short Supply
Asian Celery * Gai Choy * Tamarind * Water Spinach
Asian Vegetables: Not Available
Kachay
Exotic Fruits: Short Supply
Cumquats * Longans * Tamarillo (gold)*
Exotic Fruits: Not Available
Asian Plum * Green Mangoes * Lychee * Red Pomelos * Rambutan
BUYER'S GUIDE: 29th May - 4th June
The market is in good shape this week with only some slight issues. Mainly Strawberries and Tomatoes but the rest is good to go. The problems with Strawberries & Tomatoes is the VIC & SA fruit is more backward with greener bums and the QLD fruit is rain affected- but the good news is... both are back in price!
FRUIT:
Much the same as last week but with increased supply on some lines bringing prices back into play. These lines are all Berries, Watermelons and Honeydews with the staples still going strong. Apples, Pears, Bananas, Grapes, Mandarins, Kiwifruit, Pineapples, Papaw and New Season Navel Oranges are good buying and great quality.
VEGIES:
With the rain and cooler weather in the QLD growing areas, some items will be affected but no shortage is expected. Beans, Corn, Capsicums, Gold Squash and Iceberg Lettuce are the main products affected- and as said Tomatoes are back in price but still nothing over the top quality wise. Everything else good to go.
New season USA Cherries in stock now (and for the next 7 weeks) and we should have the first of the Australian Truffles by end of next week.
BEST BUYS:
Fruit: Apple- delicious (VIC) * Banana- cavendish (QLD) * Mandarin (QLD) * Paw Paw- yellow (QLD) * Watermelon - seedless (QLD)
Vegetable: Beetroot (QLD) * Celery (VIC) * Cocktail Chats Potato (SA) * Heirloom Tomatoes (NSW) * Mushroom - button (NSW)
SOMETHING DIFFERENT:
Fruit: Blood Limes (NSW) * Cherries (Imp- US) * Mango (IMP) * Tangello (QLD)
Vegetable: Asparagus - white (IMP) * Black Radish (NSW) * Habanero Chilli (NSW) * King Brown Mushrooms (IMP) * Roquette Lettuce (NSW) * Roman Beans (NSW)
NOT THIS WEEK:
Short Supply: Chestnut Mushroom * Yellow Butter Bean * Yellow Zucchini
Not Available: Blood Oranges * Longan
INTO THE WILD
Q: What is the link between wild Morel Mushrooms and fire?
From the bright colours and juicy flavours of Winter Citrus we bring your the rich, earthy tones of the season’s gourmet fungi. Simon George & Sons is excited to be able to offer a delicious range of imported wild mushrooms and Australian truffles this season. Well and truly at the gourmet end of the spectrum, these fungi hold a privileged status in the culinary world due to their rich flavours, textures and short seasons.
WILD MORELS:
Availability: Imported: approx the next 3-4 weeks (usually April-May), Australian: Aug-early Oct
Appearance: morels are hollow with a distinctive spongy, honeycomb like cap that ranges in colour from gold to grey/brown
Preparation: toxic raw– clean by rinsing briefly under a very gentle flow of water and dry straight away- sweat the mushrooms until cooking water evaporates then prepare as desired (sauté/braise)
Flavour: smoky, nutty, mushroom flavour and aroma
WILD MOUSSERON: aka Gambi, Fairy Rings
Availability: Apr - NovAppearance: small, delicate stem with an off-white to light brown cap that boasts widely separated, delicate gills.
Preparation: hold up well to longer cooking times due to the firm cap, lovely sautéed
Flavour: earthy full-bodied flavour and firm, fleshy texture
ITALIAN PORCINI: aka Boletus, Cépe
Availability: approx the next 3-4 weeksAppearance: meaty, swollen looking white stem and slightly slimy, brown cap- the tight tubes under the cap should be yellow to green (don’t buy brown as this indicates they are overripe)
Preparation: brush clean or wipe with damp cloth (best not to wash) then stew, sauté, BBQ, stuff or grill
Flavour: rich, nutty flavour and meaty texture
AUSTRALIAN TRUFFLES: Superior Black Perigord Truffle
Availability: early Jun – end August (WA, TAS VIC/NSW)Appearance: a black, wrinkled tuber- sold by weight the smallest are about the size of a golf ball
Preparation: a precious commodity, truffle is used sparingly-similarly to a herb- finely chopped or shaved into pastas, seafood or egg dishes that will showcase the unique truffle flavour
Storage: truffles have a shelf-life of around 3 weeks. To ensure maximum longevity, wrap in paper towel, sit in an airtight container and place in the refrigerator (preferably crisper) – change paper towel daily. Unless you deliberately want to infuse eggs/mushrooms with the distinct truffle aroma, ensure they are stored in their own container as the aroma will permeate anything in close quarters
Flavour: highly perfumed, truffles have a sweet, earthy aroma and savoury, slightly nutty flavour
A: Morel Mushrooms are found in abundance in areas that have recently (within the last 2-3 years) experienced a bush or forest fire. While there is still some confusion as to why this is, the basic explanation revolves around the existing morel fungus moving on from its burnt, dead or dying host. Essentially, the fruiting body (mushroom) of the morel fungus appears when the tree to which they are linked stops keeping up its end of the bargain. The fungus withdraws from its host and in doing so, forms sclerotia (nodules) on the roots. Given the right conditions (warmth and moisture), these then swell and the morel mushroom appears on the surface.