Q: Are Warrigal Greens an all-Australian speciality?

Having worked on premium food magazines for much of the last decade, I am fully able to appreciate the overwhelming momentum of the ‘foodie culture’ here in Australia. Whether you put it down to the rise of the ‘Celebrity Chef’, industry efforts to make great food more accessible or the influence of stunning food publications (think Gourmet Traveller, Vogue E&T, delicious) there is no doubt that Australian cuisine now boasts a definite gourmet leaning. The average Australian is much more adventurous in the kitchen, preparing dishes at home that demand complicated prep and obscure produce previously only braved by the professionals. So to put you on the front foot with these increasingly discerning foodies, this week we are profiling ‘specialty produce’ items, which being a little off beat, present a fantastic opportunity to create something truly different and special this Spring.  


SALTBUSH: aka Old Man Saltbush

Image: Outback Pride

A native plant previously used by indigenous Australians for its seeds (which were ground and roasted for making damper), this hardy shrub has taken on a new dimension in modern cuisine. Through careful selection and production in hothouses the bitter, wild plant used for rejuvenating land and grazing has been replaced by a much more user-friend large leaf variety.

Availability: all year

Use: blanch or use fresh as a salad leaf, stir-fry vegetable or similarly to a banana leaf

Supply: hits markets on Thursdays- production/supply steady and good quality

Health factor: good source of protein, mineral salts, antioxidants and calcium




Originally from South Western India, the Jackfruit is the national fruit of both Bangladesh and Indonesia. The largest of all cultivated fruits it is renowned for its distinctively sweet aroma and flesh. While also enjoyed as an immature fruit, the jackfruit is at its best when its prickly skin softens and its characteristic sweet aroma comes through.

Availability: Jun - Apr

Use: lovely fresh, but can also be cooked (often used in SE Asian curries). The seeds are edible and when baked taste a little like chestnuts. Immature fruit is a healthy, meat substitute for vegetarians due to its texture.

Supply: quality & supply is currently good, however it’s worth noting that Jackfruit are generally a more expensive item

Health factor: free of cholesterol and saturated fats, jackfruit is a good source of energy, dietary fibre, minerals and vitamins


BETEL LEAVES: aka Wild Betel Leaf, Pepper Leaf, Cha Plu


Heralding from the same family as pepper and kava, betel leaves are used widely in South East Asian cuisine. With its bold, peppery aroma and delicate flavour it is a wonderful herb that is both visually appealing and delicious.

Availability: all year, best in warmer months

Use: South East Asian cuisine- raw in salads, cooked in stir-fries, soups, meat dishes (used as a wrap)

Supply: Australian crops are grown in QLD the rest is imported- currently looking good across quality, supply and price

Health factor: good source of protein, potassium, nitrogen and minerals


WARRIGAL GREENS: aka Australian Spinach, tetragon

Image: Outback Pride

Another native plant worth a look, the warrigal green is grown along the East Coast of Australia and is a fantastic substitute for your more common greens such as silverbeet or spinach. While it tastes very similar to spinach when blanched, it has a slight salty, bitter edge that gives dishes a new dimension.

Availability: all year round, but as with all leaf lines poor weather may potentially slow supply

Use: blanch (2-3mins) before use due to high oxalate content, thenuse in dishes/sides where you would usually feature spinach, silverbeet or Asian greens

Supply: hits markets on Thursdays- production/supply steady and good quality

Health factor: a nutritional value similar to other leafy greens it also has anti-inflammatory properties and can prevent stomach ulcers




While they may not be mysterious or unknown, their reputation for being difficult to prepare has meant chestnuts haven’t garnered the attention they deserve from home-cooks. The quality of the fresh chestnuts being produced in Australia at the moment is fantastic and with the season predicted to last another 6-8 weeks, why not take full advantage this Spring.

Availability: traditional season Mar - June

Use: soups, stir-fries, cakes, salads, stuffing

Supply: quality & price holding steady with the season ending in 6-8 weeks

Health factor: no cholesterol, low in sodium and fat. Good source of mineral salts, vitamins C, B1, B2 and folate.


A: Unfortunately not, Warrigal Greens are also native to New Zealand, Norfolk Island, Japan and some parts of South America. While native to Australia and NZ, it is believed that the Aboriginals and Maori didn’t use Warrigal Greens as a leaf vegetable like we do today, rather this trend was started by Captain Cook and the first settlers who popularised it use due to its ready availability and ability to prevent scurvy.


Q: How do meats, fruit and other produce enhance a cheese course? 

After a month of refining our taste buds at the NSW Wine Festival (winding up this weekend), we couldn’t help but be inspired by the ability of the gourmet cheese platter to cater to even the most discerning palate. While purists like their cheese with little distraction, most cheese courses use a carefully crafted selection of cheeses, cured meats and fresh produce to achieve a complex balance of flavours and textures. With this in mind, our bulletin this week profiles seasonal produce that will bring out the best in your Autumn cheese platter.


COOKED FRUIT: Slow-baked quinces are delicious, however jam and pastes with a tart or sweet flavour are also suitable



Available: Mar - Aug

Growing Areas: Goulburn Valley, Granite Belt, Bathurst, Adelaide Hill

Appearance: round - pear shaped with hard, yellow skin

Flesh: hard, golden flesh which turns pale-dark pink when cooked

Flavour: highly fragrant. Very bitter making them unpleasant raw, however this deepens to a sweet, musky flavour when cooked

Selection: pick firm, yellow fruit with only a touch of green. Avoid fuzzy fruit as this indicates immaturity

Preparation: high pectin levels make quince perfect for making jams, jellies & preserves. The slower and longer a quince is cooked, the darker the end colour


FRESH FRUIT: APPLES, pears and GRAPES are platter favourites, however FIGS and FUJU PERSIMMON are also in season and are a colourful, delicious alternative

NASHI: aka Asian Pear, Oriental Pear, Apple-Pear, salad pear

Available: Mar - Nov (best May - Aug)

Growing Areas: Goulburn Valley (90%)

Appearance: medium, round fruit with yellow-green slightly rough skin (can be flecked with white or brown depending on variety)

Flesh: creamy white, crisp and juicy flesh (like an apple)

Flavour: subtly sweet with medium sugar and high acid

Selection: choose light yellow-green fruit that are firm

Preparation: fresh and juicy- or cook similarly to apple or pear



Available: Feb – Oct, best Apr - May

Growing Areas: predominantly Victoria however grown across Australia (ex. NT)

Appearance: med to large pear with an elongated neck, green-brown skin and a golden-brown russet that darkens as it ripens

Flesh: juicy, white flesh

Flavour: aromatic, sweet, buttery and juicy

Selection: fragrant and firm, ripe pears give a little when pressed at the stem

Preparation: fresh and juicy, poach in wine and spices


SWEET PERSIMMON: aka Fuji Fruit, Fuju Persimmon or Fuyu Fruit


Available: late Feb - June

Appearance:  round fruit with a somewhat flat top and orange skin

Flesh: orange

Flavour: mild, sweet flavour

Selection: Should be bought when crisp and crunchy. 

Preparation: When fresh, best enjoyed like an apple, otherwise can be used when soft/mature in cooking


SEMI-DRIED FRUIT: California dates are superb at the moment. Dried muscatel are also a good addition, however these will not be available for some time yet



Available: all year

Appearance: rich gold to dark brown, slightly wrinkled skin

Flesh: soft, slightly chewy

Flavour: rich and sweet- caramel tones

Selection: look for plump dates which are slightly glossy and gold-brown in colour. Avoid any with crystals on the skin

Preparation: slice and remove stone, fantastic fresh but can be also be used in cooking, baking, dipped in chocolate or stuffed


ROASTED NUTS: chestnuts are great eating at the moment, however  almonds, pistachios, walnuts and hazelnuts are also suitable



Available: Apr - Jul

Growing Areas: North East VIC (70-80%), growers in all states

Appearance: heart shaped tree nut that has a tough, shiny dark brown shell

Flesh: creamy white nut - when cooked is similar to a roast potato in texture

Flavour: sweet and nutty - not suitable raw

Selection: buy heavy for size and firm as this indicates freshness

Preparation: short shelf life (1-2wks in fridge) though frozen nuts can be used for soups/purees. Lie chestnut on flat side and score the outer skin vertically, this stops them bursting when roasting (for your platter) or cooking them remove tough outer shell and thin inner skin (pellicle) prior to eating

A: A cheese course usually consists of 3-5 cheeses with different milk types (i.e. sheep milk, cows milk or goat milk) and textures (i.e. firm, washed-rind or blue) represented. The fruits, nuts and other accoutrement are used to enhance the unique character of these cheeses in different ways. For example, the sweet tones of fruit pastes/jams complement the rich taste of blue or French Brie, while fresh fruit provides a crisp, sweet contrast to salty cheeses and refreshes the palate. Warm, crunchy nuts are also popular (especially in the cooler months) as they provide a crunchy texture and enhance the nutty flavours in some cheeses. Other favourite additions to a cheese course include chewy fruits which complement firm cheeses, salty olives and crostini, crackers or specialty breads which help to cleanse the palate.  


Q: How long is the rain likely to last?  

Summer is officially gone and with it go the luscious stonefruits, berries and tomatoes that characterise Sydney’s summer menus. So what can we expect from Autumn 2012?

Sydney’s tropical (read: rainy) summer has taken its toll on local produce (especially ground grown crops- herbs, asian vegetables, tomatoes) however consistent supply from interstate has managed to keep the markets relatively stable. Unfortunately, we are now starting to see poor weather impact interstate products and if the rain continues we can expect to see quality and price issues across the board.

On a positive note all this wet weather has brought the elusive Pine Mushrooms to the markets early,  not to mention apple, pears, exotic fruits , cabbage lines and root veg are all looking relatively consistent and are good eating.



New season apples, pears and quince are abundant in Autumn with almost all varieties of apple and pear available over the course of the season.

Supply: Expected to be consistent bar a significant storms or hail in the growing regions

Inspiration: Vogue Entertaining + Travel’s Spiced Quince and Pears with baked custard

Image Source:



Beans are a staple of Autumn, with Borlotti, Butter, French, Green, Roman and Snake making an appearance.

Supply: With the rains in QLD/Nth QLD this week the market for beans has turned dramatically with supply very tight and price jumping significantly. With supply directly influenced by the weather we hope to see supply and price improve as the weather clears.

Inspiration: Teage Ezard’s Barbecued ox tongue with southern gold potatoes, snake beans and sticky mustard dressing recipe

Image source:



Hitting the markets earlier than usual, cabbage lines – chinese wombok, red cabbage, Tuscan cabbage – fill the gap left by the slowing lettuce lines.

Supply: Hardier than other ground grown crops, supply should remain consistent. However excessive rain or flooding may cause splitting and as a result supply issues

Inspiration: Jacques Reymond’s Spatchcock & Buttered Cabbage with verjus

Image Source:



Filling the void of the lush mangoes and berries come the passionfruit, custard apples, breadfruit, persimmon, guava and pomegranates & tamarillos

Supply: Some issues with guava supply at the moment but otherwise looking steady for the season ahead

Inspiration: Kim Woodward’s Butter roasted halibut, lobster salad, coriander pasta and passion fruit sauce

Image Source:



Autumn also sees the return of the fresh nuts- with Australian grown pistachios (NOW), almonds (Feb-Mar), Hazelnuts (Feb-Apr), Peanuts (Feb-June) and Chestnuts (Apr- Jul) on the scene!

Supply: When they hit the markets, they hit in force- though they finish all too quickly

Inspiration: Peter Gilmore’s Caramelised Vanilla Brioche French toast

Image source:



I recently read a quote that said there were four seasons, Spring, Summer, Pumpkin and Winter. With all lines including Butternut on offer in Autumn, who can blame them.

Supply: Sourced locally, pumpkins are traditionally abundant and great eating for the whole season

Inspiration: Rick Stein’s Pumpkin ravioli with sage butter

Image source:



Autumn sees the root veg come into their own with sweet potatoes, horseradish, turnip, parsnip and spud varieties (Royal Blue, Ruby Lou, Pontiac, Desiree, Burbank, Purple Congo) all coming into their own.

Supply: While supply should remain consistent, root veg are susceptible to splitting and rot with too much rain – so lets hope for some clear skies.

Inspiration: Bar H’s Sashimi of striped trumpeter with mushrooms and ginger, horseradish and soy dressing

Image source:


More produce highlights for Autumn: Pine Mushrooms, Celeriac, Fennel, Leeks, Spinach and Silverbeet


A: Unfortunately it may last a while yet. The Bureau of Meteorology is predicting a wetter autumn than average for NSW and SA and a slightly drier season for VIC and TAS. There is a silver lining however, with the BOM describing their outlook model as having ‘low skill over South East NSW’ at this time of year! So you never know, blue skies could be just around the corner.