THE ROOT OF THE MATTER

Q: What does Kohlrabi have to do with broccoli?

Ralph Waldo Emerson once said that the “beautiful rests on the foundations of the necessary” and nothing could be truer for the workhorses of the culinary world: root vegetables. Despite their functionality and crude appearance, root vegies are at the core of cuisines worldwide due to their flavour, affordability and nutritional value.

While Winter is the peak season for most root vegetables, Autumn sees early lines of root vegetables arriving at the markets- preparing us for the chilly months and comfort food to come.  Here’s some of the more unusual or timely root vegetables to keep an eye out for this Autumn.

POTATOES:

While we have previously explored the most popular taters and their uses (see Boil ‘em, mash ‘em, stick ‘em in a stew post) here’s some strong Autumn varieties.

Burbank aka Idaho

When: All year, best Mar - Dec

How: The chip potato! Though also good for baking and roasting

Kennebec

When: All year, best Jan - Oct

How: Starchy so make great chips but also good mash, boiled, baked or fried

Pontiac: 

When: Available all year but good buying at the moment

How: General purpose, though avoid frying. Density means longer cooking time but holds shape well and has minimal discolouration after cooking

Royal Blue:

When: All year, best Feb - Aug

How: All rounder- good cooking variety (roast, mash, chip, salad)

 

 

 

CELERIAC: aka Celery root

Image: www.marketfresh.com.au

Availability: All year, best Mar – late Sept

Appearance: creamy brown solid tuber

Flesh: white

Flavour: rich texture & slightly smoky flavour - cross between celery and parsley

Selection: choose medium size roots that are firm, if the leaves are still attached look for healthy plump stalks

Preparation: Don’t wash until ready to use and peel tough outer layer. Think remoulade, soups, chips, or as a side (boiled, steamed, mashed). Raw they are often grated in salads (use lemon to stop discolouration once cut)

Nutritional value: good dietary fibre and Vitamin C

 

KOHLRABI: aka Turnip-rooted cabbage, Cabbage Turnip

Image: www.bostonfoodandwhine.com

Availability: early produce at markets now, best Jun - Aug

Appearance: swollen stem at the base of blue/green leaves, stem can be red/light green (white)

Flesh: pale green - creamy white and crispy

Flavour: slightly sweeter than broccoli stems or cabbage heart. White tends to be slightly softer and milder, while red is larger and has a stronger aroma and flavour

Selection: buy med size (larger = woodier). Look for crisp, good colour

Preparation: cut off base, trim stalks. To get the most value and nutrients, cook whole with skin on then peel after cooking. Otherwise, use much like a turnip- lovely raw in salads or roasted/sauted

Nutritional value: very high Vitamin C and potassium

 

LOTUS ROOT: aka renkon

Image: naturespride.eu

Availability: Mar – Nov

Appearance:  root (rhizome) with reddish brown skin

Flesh: slightly crunchy, white flesh with air holes running the length of the root

Flavour: sweet, crisp (maintains texture when cooked)

Selection: firm, plump and juicy with no soft spots. The darker the root the older it is

Preparation: Peel and go. Can be eaten raw like celery or carrot on a platter or in salads. When cooking it is recommended to blanch prior to cooking to avoid discolouration. Steam, stuff, caramalise, stew, candy or use in a curry or soup

Nutritional value: dietary fibre, Vitamin C, minerals- copper, iron, zinc, magnesium

 

HORSERADISH:

Image: www.marketfresh.com.au

Availability: Mar - Nov

Appearance: white, tapered root

Flesh: white

Flavour: spicy, pungent nose burn- similar to wasabi or mustard (which are in the family)

Selection: avoid shrivelled or dry roots with soft or green spots

Preparation: fresh roots aren’t pungent but (similar to wasabi) the process of cutting, grating or grinding causes its cells to breakdown and undergo a chemical reaction. This reaction releases oils which provide the pungent aroma and taste. Once prepared, fresh horseradish should be used quickly or it will lose its potency (if left exposed it can also develop a bitter taste)

Nutritional value: antibacterial (good for colds) source of potassium, calcium and magnesium

 

PARSNIP:

Image: www.parsniprecipes.co.uk

 

Availability: All Year, best Mar - Oct

Appearance: taproot that looks like a white carrot

Flesh: creamy white

Flavour: sweet yet with a slightly nutty, peppery edge

Selection: pick small to medium size roots (large have a woody core) with a smooth, firm surface

Preparation: Best in dishes with prolonged cooking

Nutritional value: good source of potassium, dietary fibre, vitamin C and niacin

 

SWEET POTATO: aka kumera

Image: www.marketfresh.com.au

Availability: All year, best May to July

Appearance: long, tapered root with smooth skin that can be white, orange, red or purple

Flesh: can be white, yellow, bright orange or purple. 

Flavour: sweet - orange varieties are sweetest due to a higher sugar content

Selection: bright, uniform skin that is clean and smooth with no cracks or bruises

Preparation: can peel or scrub the skin. The options are endless, they can transform into everything from a scone to a chip- while also good raw in salads or coleslaw

Nutritional value: Orange varieties are best for Vitamin C, beta-carotene and dietary fibre, though  all are fat free with good Vitamin C, A

 

TARO

Selection: choose hard, firm tubers heavy for their size

Preparation: use much like you would a potato - bake, roast, chip, fry or boil or chop into soups, curries, casseroles or stews

Image: www.marketfresh.com.au

White:

Availability: May – Jan

Appearance: small- medium tubers with brown to purple/brown skin

Flesh: white

Flavour: somewhere between a potato and a chestnut

Pink: aka Samoan Taro

Availability: Jul - Aug

Appearance: small- medium tubers with brown to purple/brown skin

Flesh: white

Flavour: slightly nutty

Yellow: aka Dasheen

Availability: Jul - Aug

Appearance: large, long tubers with a yellow skin (avoid any with pink skin as this indicates damage)

Flesh: pale yellow

Flavour: nutty, slightly sweet, dryer texture- preferred variety for Polynesian cooking

Japanese: aka Sweet White, Mini Taro

Availability: Jun - Aug

Appearance: mini tubers that grow off the main tuber

Flesh: white

Flavour: sweet, moist – preferred for Asian/Japanese cuisine

 

JICAMA: aka Yam Bean, Mexican water chestnut

Image: www.care2.com

Availability: Jun - Dec

Appearance: tan coloured tuber

Flesh: white and crunchy

Flavour: crisp and sweet (cross between an apple and a potato)- high water content

Selection: medium size, firm with dry roots

Preparation: Use like apple or pear in salads (grated/chopped) as it won’t discolour. Can be used like a water chestnut in Asian dishes or chopped into stews or soups.

Nutritional value: very good source of Potassium, dietary fibre and Vitamin C

 

A: Believe it or not, they are related. They both belong to the species Brassica Oleracea, which also lays claim to Brussels Sprouts, Chinese Broccoli, Broccoflower, Collard Greens, Cauliflower, Cabbage and Kale. All deriving from Wild Cabbage, these strikingly different vegetables (in both appearance and flavour) have been deliberately shaped into their current forms through thousands of years of careful cultivation by humans.  

 


AUTUMN HARVEST

Q: How long is the rain likely to last?  

Summer is officially gone and with it go the luscious stonefruits, berries and tomatoes that characterise Sydney’s summer menus. So what can we expect from Autumn 2012?

Sydney’s tropical (read: rainy) summer has taken its toll on local produce (especially ground grown crops- herbs, asian vegetables, tomatoes) however consistent supply from interstate has managed to keep the markets relatively stable. Unfortunately, we are now starting to see poor weather impact interstate products and if the rain continues we can expect to see quality and price issues across the board.

On a positive note all this wet weather has brought the elusive Pine Mushrooms to the markets early,  not to mention apple, pears, exotic fruits , cabbage lines and root veg are all looking relatively consistent and are good eating.

 

AUTUMN FLAVOURS:

APPLES/PEARS/QUINCE:
New season apples, pears and quince are abundant in Autumn with almost all varieties of apple and pear available over the course of the season.

Supply: Expected to be consistent bar a significant storms or hail in the growing regions

Inspiration: Vogue Entertaining + Travel’s Spiced Quince and Pears with baked custard

Image Source: www.taste.com.au

 

BEANS:

Beans are a staple of Autumn, with Borlotti, Butter, French, Green, Roman and Snake making an appearance.

Supply: With the rains in QLD/Nth QLD this week the market for beans has turned dramatically with supply very tight and price jumping significantly. With supply directly influenced by the weather we hope to see supply and price improve as the weather clears.

Inspiration: Teage Ezard’s Barbecued ox tongue with southern gold potatoes, snake beans and sticky mustard dressing recipe

Image source: www.sbsfood.com.au

 

CABBAGE:

Hitting the markets earlier than usual, cabbage lines – chinese wombok, red cabbage, Tuscan cabbage – fill the gap left by the slowing lettuce lines.

Supply: Hardier than other ground grown crops, supply should remain consistent. However excessive rain or flooding may cause splitting and as a result supply issues

Inspiration: Jacques Reymond’s Spatchcock & Buttered Cabbage with verjus

Image Source: www.gourmettraveller.com.au

 

EXOTIC FRUITS:

Filling the void of the lush mangoes and berries come the passionfruit, custard apples, breadfruit, persimmon, guava and pomegranates & tamarillos

Supply: Some issues with guava supply at the moment but otherwise looking steady for the season ahead

Inspiration: Kim Woodward’s Butter roasted halibut, lobster salad, coriander pasta and passion fruit sauce

Image Source: www.bbc.co.uk/food

 

NUTS:

Autumn also sees the return of the fresh nuts- with Australian grown pistachios (NOW), almonds (Feb-Mar), Hazelnuts (Feb-Apr), Peanuts (Feb-June) and Chestnuts (Apr- Jul) on the scene!

Supply: When they hit the markets, they hit in force- though they finish all too quickly

Inspiration: Peter Gilmore’s Caramelised Vanilla Brioche French toast

Image source: www.lifestylefood.com.au

 

PUMPKIN:

I recently read a quote that said there were four seasons, Spring, Summer, Pumpkin and Winter. With all lines including Butternut on offer in Autumn, who can blame them.

Supply: Sourced locally, pumpkins are traditionally abundant and great eating for the whole season

Inspiration: Rick Stein’s Pumpkin ravioli with sage butter

Image source: www.bbc.co.uk/food

 

ROOT VEG:

Autumn sees the root veg come into their own with sweet potatoes, horseradish, turnip, parsnip and spud varieties (Royal Blue, Ruby Lou, Pontiac, Desiree, Burbank, Purple Congo) all coming into their own.

Supply: While supply should remain consistent, root veg are susceptible to splitting and rot with too much rain – so lets hope for some clear skies.

Inspiration: Bar H’s Sashimi of striped trumpeter with mushrooms and ginger, horseradish and soy dressing

Image source: www.gourmettraveller.com.au

 

More produce highlights for Autumn: Pine Mushrooms, Celeriac, Fennel, Leeks, Spinach and Silverbeet

 

A: Unfortunately it may last a while yet. The Bureau of Meteorology is predicting a wetter autumn than average for NSW and SA and a slightly drier season for VIC and TAS. There is a silver lining however, with the BOM describing their outlook model as having ‘low skill over South East NSW’ at this time of year! So you never know, blue skies could be just around the corner.