USE YOUR MELON
Q: What is the difference between 'summer' and 'winter' squash?
In the time that I have been producing these bulletins for Simon George & Sons I have covered a broad range of topics, though I don’t think I have tackled anything as daunting as the important produce group I am profiling this week- the Cucurbitaceae. Made up of around 960 species, the Cucurbit family produces a fabulously diverse range of fruits (many thought to be vegetables) which have the rare privilege of being considered both everyday items and gourmet favourites in Australia. The Cucurbitaceae family includes Melons (Winter and Summer), Squash, Pumpkins, Cucumbers and Zucchini. Our bulletin this week provides a snapshot of how these products are performing in the markets this Spring, plus links and information on Cucurbit varieties worth a second look as the weather heats up.
GENUS: CUCUMIS
ROCKMELON aka Cantaloupe
Rockmelons are available all year but are at their sweet, musky best during Summer (roughly Nov- Mar).
Buyer’s Update: sweet, good quality fruit is well supplied making it one of our best buys this week – (QLD/NT)
HONEYDEW:
Honeydews are available all year round, enjoying a natural peak in Summer (Dec-Jan). The yellow honeydew is a hybrid variety with smooth flesh that is sweet and luscious
Buyer’s Update: sweet, good quality fruit is well supplied making white Honeydew one of our best buys this week – (QLD/NT). Yellow Honeydew is currently available and pricing well
CASABA:
The Casaba looks like a wrinkled, pointy yellow honeydew and boasts a mild, sweet flavour distinct from the musky tones of a rockmelon
Buyer’s Update: not yet available- Casaba is at its best Dec/Feb
CUCUMBER
Available all year, cucumbers peak in production Dec-May just in time for summer salads. It is the seeds that give a good cucumber its essence, medium sized fruit tend to be best
Buyer’s Update: QLD telegraphs are abundant and good quality making them a BB this week, meanwhile green cucumbers and Lebanese cucumbers are in good supply, good quality and reasonably priced
HORNED MELON aka Kiwano, African Horned Cucumber, Prickly Cucumber
The immature green fruit tends to be referred to as a prickly cucumber and used as vegetable, whereas the mature fruit (distinctive yellow-orange skin) is called a horned melon and used as a fruit
Buyer’s Update: not currently available, in Australia it is grown in QLD with fruit usually available Dec – Mar
Appearance: prickly skin that turns a bright yellow-orange on maturity
Flesh: similar to a cucumber with it has small white seeds enclosed in a green jelly like flesh throughout
Flavour: sweet and tart, these are amazing served chilled
Selection: a general rule is- the brighter the orange colour, the sweeter the flesh
GENUS: CITRULLUS
WATERMELON:
Buyer’s Update: one of our best buys this week after a period of high pricing- seedless and long both performing well (QLD)
GENUS: CUCURBITA
BUTTERNUT SQUASH
From the Moschata species of the Cucurbita genus, the butternut is very popular in Australia due to its versatility and nutty flavour. For further information on butternut squash please visit our previous bulletin – Pumpkin Patch by clicking HERE.
Buyer’s Update:: Butternut is the best buying of the ‘pumpkins’ or rather Cucurbita genus at the moment,
PUMPKINS
For further information on Pumpkin varieties, their seasonality and usage please visit our previous bulletin – Pumpkin Patch by clicking HERE.
Buyer’s Update: The Jap is limited & expensive at the moment however it is better buying than Jarrahdale which is currently very high in price
YELLOW SQUASH aka button, scallopini, pattypan squash
Button squash remind me of baked dinners, which in turn inspires thoughts of Yorkshire puds but with their sweet, succulent flesh and bright colour button squash are capable of so much more. Available year round with peak fruit arriving Jul-Nov
Buyer’s Update: in consistent supply at the moment, yellow squash is performing well in terms of quality and pricing fair
ZUCCHINI aka Courgette (green/baby/yellow)
Brought to Australia by Italian migrants in the 50s, today zucchinis are available all year and typically best value Jun-Nov
Buyer’s Update: moderate supply of green, yellow limited
ZUCCHINI FLOWERS
Male flowers are not only more economical but the long stems make preparation and cooking much easier if the fruit isn’t required. For more information on zucchini flowers please visit our previous bulletin – Battle of the Sexes by clicking HERE
Buyer’s Update: good supply just in time for spring/summer sides - both female (with fruit) and male (no fruit) are currently available
GENUS: BENINCASA
ASIAN MELONS:
Long, Hairy and Winter melons are (despite appearances) all the same species. For further information on Asian Melon varieties and their usage please visit our previous bulletin – Asian Melons by clicking HERE.
Buyer’s Update:
Hairy melon- in season supply & price good
Long Melon- season just started, the small amount of fruit available however is reasonably priced
Winter Melon- season hasjust started and only limited fruit available however prices fair. Supply peaks late spring/summer
GENUS: MOMORDICA
BITTER MELON aka Fu Qua, Balsam Pear, Bitter Gourd, Bitter Cucumber
Buyer’s Update: bitter melons are in season with quality and pricing currently good
GENUS: LUFFA
SPONGE (SMOOTH) LUFFA and RIDGED LUFFA
Luffas are perfect for dishes where the sauce will be soaked up into the fruit. They absorb the flavours literally ‘like’ sponges. For further information on Luffas and their usage please visit our previous bulletin – Asian Melons by clicking HERE
Buyer’s Update: – both sponge (smooth) and ridged luffas are currently available but not in large quantities, with prices sitting a little high
A: The terms 'summer' and 'winter' when discussing squash are as straightforward as they seem, being a direct reference to the seasonality of different varieties. While advances in farming have made this seasonal distinction more or less redundant, it does provide an insight into the characteristics of the fruit. 'Summer squash' are picked immature while the skin is still edible (button squash, zucchinis, crookneck squash etc) whereas winter squash are harvested mature a thick, hard rind and fully matured seeds. 'Winter squash' originally picked up the moniker as their characteristic hard, thick rind meant they could be stored for longer periods and enjoyed in the depths of winter, unlike their summer counterparts.
START YOUR ENGINES
Q: Could you fuel a V8 from your kitchen?
After the slow and steady pace of Winter, Spring is a time of supercharged activity for the horticultural and food service sectors. The V8 supercars may set the pace at Eastern Creek but they fall well short of the speed at which the markets turnover between September and January. To help you keep track of the changes ahead, below is a concise calendar of key produce lines that hit full throttle during Spring and others that fall off the pace in terms of quality, supply and price. To see the markets in action this Spring, contact us to organise your guided tour of the Sydney Produce and Growers markets with SG&S Director, Damian George.
FULL THROTTLE:
The below produce lines hit their natural peak in Spring and will therefore offer great buying and quality over the coming months
OFF THE PACE:
While we are fortunate enough to have a relatively unbroken supply of produce throughout the year in Australia, that being said, you can expect the following items to increase in price, become limited in availability or finish altogether during Spring as their natural season ends.
Buddha Hands- while supply has been inconsistent this year, the traditional season ends in October
Celeriac- while still available, peak season ends September
Gold Kiwifruit – start to drop our in September/October
Limes – while supply is still steady, prices will start to rise considerably over the coming weeks
Mandarins- start to phase out in October
Oranges- Blood Oranges drop off in September while Seville Oranges drop off in October, though Navels will be available until November
Root Vegetables-peak season for most winter root vegetables ends in September
Tangellos- start to wind up November
Taro Root- drops off for a few months in Oct/Nov
A: Well maybe not, but in 2009 a British team did design a Formula 3 race car powered entirely by vegetable oil and waste chocolate. In fact vegetables played a key role in the car’s overall design- the turbocharged engine ran on biodiesel and lubricants derived from plant oil, the wing endplates were made of potato starch covered with flax fibre and the steering wheel was made of curran (carrot fibres said to be equally as strong as carbon fibre). Even closer to home, Australia’s V8s are also vege powered (to a degree) with the racing competition being exclusively powered by E85 – an 85% ethanol-based fuel- since 2009.
SPRING’S BOUNTY
Q: Why is Australian white asparagus priced significantly higher than green?
The end of August is always a period of transition for food lovers, however this year seems especially tough- cold weather along the Eastern Seaboard is slowing supply and hiking up prices on a long list of produce items, ironically just in time for the start of the busy season and there is absolutely nothing on TV that comes close to filling the void left by the Olympics. To put the Spring back in your step and assist with menu planning for the next few months, here are our produce highlights for the coming season. We have included some nutritional information as there’s nothing like feeling good about what you’re eating to make it taste even better on the palate.
SPRING FLAVOURS:
ASPARAGUS:
The arrival of the Australian Asparagus season is getting closer with quality spears predicted to arrive at the markets for the first week of September. In particular the arrival of the sweet, tender, home-grown white asparagus is much anticipated due to its premium quality, texture and gourmet aesthetic.
Supply: Early crops from QLD, main crop from VIC
Green Asparagus: all year, Australian produce best Sept- Dec
Baby Green Asparagus: all year, best Sept- Dec
Purple Asparagus: Oct- Dec
White Asparagus: Sept – Jan
Feel Good Factor: excellent source of Vitamin C & E, dietary fibre, folate and potassium
Inspiration: Confit of Suffolk lamb loin, fresh milk curd, asparagus, spring onions, broad beans, young leeks, sunflower seeds, pine nuts, hazelnuts, quinoa, pea flowers, nasturtiums – Peter Gilmore via Lifestyle Food
AUSTRALIAN GARLIC:
Australian Garlic is world’s apart from the imported product available throughout the year and its season is something I have come to get excited about and support every year by paying a premium price for a premium product. For a more comprehensive overview of the garlic varieties currently grown in Australia, their seasonality and characteristics, click here.
Supply: Main growing regions are SA, VIC ,NSW with some early crops from QLD
Australian Garlic Season: October - May
Spring Garlic: available October
Green Garlic: available November
Feel Good Factor: natural antibiotic, also assists in management of blood pressure & cholesterol
Inspiration: Tamworth pork terrine, roast garlic purée, deep fried egg and artichoke – Kevin Mangeolles via Great British Chefs
MANGOES:
Early Northern Territory mangoes are already arriving at the markets and while they are not yet great eating, it is a sign of the luscious, warm weather and tropical flavours to come. Sydney Markets will be holding its annual mango auction on September 5th heralding the official opening of the mango season, last year the auction raised $30,000 ($2,500/mango) for the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia and Westmead Children's Hospital. For more information on mango varieties and Australian seasons click here
Supply: NT opens the season (peaking around October), before main producer QLD enters the market around November
Feel Good Factor: very high in Vit C and A. Rich source of beta-carotene, fibre and potassium
Inspiration: Mango salsa and coconut heart salad recipe- Peter Kuravita via SBS Food
SHISO LEAF: aka Perillo
Shiso Leaf is available in red and green varieties, the red (with its anise and subtle mint flavour) is the most popular in Australia and is used widely in Vietnamese and Japanese cuisine (where traditionally the leaves were used to dye pickled ume or were mixed with ume paste in sushi). While available pretty much all year, Shiso is at its best Nov – Mar
Supply: SG&S predominantly sources our Shiso from local NSW producers
Feel Good Factor: high in calcium, iron and potassium, rich in fiber, very high in Vit A and C. Believed to have anti-inflammatory properties
Inspiration: Duck yakitori with pumpkin, shiso and daikon salad and plum dipping sauce – via Gourmet Traveller
PEPINO: aka Sweet Pepino, Melon Pear
Spring is undeniably the start of the mango and stonefruit season but if you’re looking for something different why not try the pepino. With its distinctive purple stripes, yellow flesh and a juicy flavour reminiscent of melon, banana and pear (depending on who you ask)– it is perfect for spicing up the breakfast menu or adding a twist to sweet and savoury spring salads.
Supply: QLD produces fruit in Spring and Autumn
Feel Good Factor: good source offibre, Vitamin A, B and C
Inspiration: Wild Mexican Shrimp Escabeche with Pepino Melon, Popped Corn, Jicama Salsa - Bernard Guillas via Restaurant Hospitality
Yam Oka: aka NZ Yam, Oka Yam, Oca
Originally from South America, these sweet tubers offer a wonderful alternative to winter root vegetable lines with their smaller size, tangy, nut flavour and silky texture. Eat with the skin on to get maximum nutritional value, the skin is thin and edible and ensures the yam holds shape when cooked.
Supply: coming from QLD, best in July (season runs for 6-8 weeks)
Feel Good Factor: good source offibre, Vitamin A, B and C
Inspiration: Yam, kumara and pumpkin coconut curry
Other items of note for Spring: As the weather warms, the markets will start to come alive with tropical fruits and a wider range of vegetables. Other items to watch out for this Spring include stonefruit (Oct/Nov), berries, chillies, sweetcorn, radishes, edible flowers, watercress and okra.
A: There are two reasons. Firstly, the Australian white asparagus season is brief and given its popularity among food-service professionals (and increasingly with home cooks) demand tends to outstrip supply. The second reason is production costs. To achieve its colour, white asparagus is grown in the dark, preventing sunlight from turning the shoots green. Traditionally this was achieved by keeping the asparagus crown submerged beneath a mound of dirt and using specialised equipment to blind harvest– which led to reduced yields as it was difficult to perform without damaging the crop. Many Australian farmers now employ an innovative system that sees white asparagus grown beneath black polyhouses- essentially a large dark greenhouse, a huge step forward, this farming method achieves wonderful colour, flavour and allows for simpler harvesting practices.
BETTER BY THE BUNCH
Q: What is a bouquet garni?
While the cold and wet weather has impacted on some fruit and vegetables lines (read: beans, rocket, zucchini flowers), we are pleased to say that our locally-grown ‘bunch’ herbs are holding up well this winter. Not only are they high quality, but in good supply and therefore fantastic buying at the moment. Simon George & Sons has an extensive range of ‘bunch’ herbs available and while Thai Basil and Garlic Chives are currently in short supply, the varieties listed below should continue to be among our best buys over the coming weeks. So why not take advantage of the favourable conditions and stock up on some of nature’s most vibrant, mouth-watering flavour enhancers.
Selection & Storage: When selecting herbs the general rule is to look for bright, fresh leaves, free of bruising or yellowing that boast healthy, firm stems. To maximise the shelf life of most bunch herbs place them in a glass of water, cover the top of the glass with plastic, seal and place in the fridge- change the water daily.
BASIL:
Availability: all year, best Dec - Apr
Appearance: bright green, oval leaves
Flavour: slightly sweet, grassy cloves
Storage: place stems in water, cover with plastic and refrigerate. Change water daily and use within a week
Preparation: delicate herb, once sliced it browns very quickly. Quite versatile, basil can be used fresh to accent a dish or can be used as the base of a sauce or to accent flavours such as tomato
BAY LEAF:
Availability: all year
Appearance: bright green, pointed, smooth leaves
Flavour: earthy aroma, almost bitter edge
Selection: leaves should be bright green with a glossy top and boast a strong aroma
Storage: store in airtight container in fridge or freeze in an airtight bag
Preparation: slow cooking specialist, removed before consumption
CHERVIL: aka French parsley
Availability: Apr - Dec
Appearance: looks similar to parsley or a carrot top
Flavour: aniseed, parsley
Preparation: flavour is lost when dried or cooked, so use fresh in salads or as a garnish
CORIANDER: aka cilantro
Availability: all year
Appearance: broad bright green, feathered leaf
Flavour: pungent, distinct aroma
Preparation: use in Thai or Asian cooking especially curries, stir-fries, salads. Add stems of leaves as base of sauce, then delicate leaves prior to serving to get maximum flavour and as a striking garnish.
DILL: aka dill weed
Availability: all year
Appearance: fine, feathered, blue-green leaves
Flavour: light, aromatic grassy flavour
Selection: leaves should be nicely feathered and stems firm and healthy
Preparation: add just before serving to fish, egg, potato dishes or as a garnish
LAVENDER:
Availability: Spring - Autumn
Appearance: green stems and distinctive small, purple flowers
Flavour: delicate, floral flavour, with citrus overtones
Preparation: flowers and leaves can be used. Most often used in baking (ground into sugar), desserts, meaty stews, salads or as a garnish (even as a garnish in a glass of champers)
LEMON BALM: aka balm mint, sweet balm
Availability: short season, spring-summer
Appearance: heart shaped, veined leaves covered with coarse hairs
Flavour: fresh lemon aroma and flavour
Preparation: Fantastic with fish. Add late in the cooking process or use fresh in salads or as a garnish. Combines well with Chervil
LEMON GRASS:
Availability: all year- peak in warm weather
Appearance: long grass –like stalks
Flavour: pungent, distinctive lemon hit
Preparation: peel tough outer layers of stem and trim base. If using as an infusion, bruise the stem to release oils before adding. Or finely chop into stir-fries, curries etc
MARJORAM: aka sweet marjoram
Availability: all year
Appearance: woody stems, small, oval leaves (that fall on opposite sides of the stem) and white flowers
Flavour: delicate and aromatic- sweeter and milder than oregano
Preparation: fantastic with roast meat dishes, in stuffing (vege, chicken or meat) and as a garnish on salads, egg and potato dishes
MINT:
COMMON MINT:
Availability: all year
Appearance: wrinkled leaves,
Flavour: refreshing, unique aroma and flavour
Preparation: savoury and sweet
VIETNAMESE MINT: aka hot mint
Availability: all year
Appearance: long, pointed leaves with a purple tint at base (distinct band across leaf)
Flavour: spicy, citrusy, pepper flavour – common in South East Asian, Vietnamese cuisine
Preparation: rinse gently and use raw in salads, summer rolls, shredded into laksa or stews
SPEARMINT:
Availability: all year
Appearance: light green, wrinkled leaves
Flavour: sweet, refreshing mint flavour
Preparation: most commonly used mint variety for cooking – fantastic in savoury meat dishes, salads, desserts (chocolate) or cocktails
OREGANO: aka wild marjoram
Availability: all year
Appearance: tiny leaves and pink/purple edible flowers on a woody stem
Flavour: slightly sharp, warm, pungent flavour
Preparation: quite hardy, add early in the cooking process as slow cooking enhances flavour
PARSLEY:
CONTINENTAL PARSLEY aka Italian parsley
Availability: all year
Appearance: flat, cut leaves
Flavour: refreshing aroma, mild flavour
Preparation: best variety for cooking as its bright flavour holds up well and will enhance the accompanying flavours in the dish
CURLY PARSLEY aka English Parsley
Availability: all year
Appearance: dark green leaves that curl up at the edges
Flavour: coarser flavour than continental parsley
Preparation: edible stems and leaves, refreshing and visually appealing garnish
ROSEMARY:
Availability: all year
Appearance: long, sharp leaves
Flavour: warm, pepper
Preparation: a hardy plant, rosemary is often used as a base to roasting meat dishes such as lamb and poultry- firm woody stem also serves as a fantastic skewer that subtly flavours the meat as it marinades and cooks
SAGE: aka kitchen sage
Availability: all year
Appearance: green, leathery leaves that are covered in fine hairs. They can be long and slim or slightly broader
Flavour: musky, pepper flavour
Preparation: good cooking herb especially with fatty or oily foods. Also good in soups, mash potato, marinades or baking
TARRAGON: a very delicate herb, tarragon tends to wilt after harvest. This does not impact the flavour
TARRAGON:
Availability: all year
Appearance: long, slim leaves on a woody stem with a stunning edible, yellow flower that appears in winter as its natural season ends
Flavour: spicy, aniseed with a slightly sweet, tart aftertaste
Preparation: a classic French herb, tarragon is a well known ingredient in béarnaise sauce and compound butters – popular herb for flavouring fish and chicken dishes
FRENCH TARRAGON:
Availability: all year – easily affected by weather therefore supply can fluctuate throughout the year
Appearance: long, slim, glossy green leaves
Flavour: stronger than regular tarragon but still boasts the same slightly tart, aniseed punch
Preparation: use more sparingly due to its powerful flavour
THYME: best with strong flavoured dishes as it can overpower a dish very easily
THYME:
Availability: all year
Appearance: woody stem with tiny, grey-green rounded leaves
Flavour: strong, pungent aroma – spicy, pepper flavour
Preparation: fantastic for slow cooking as holds flavour well
LEMON THYME: aka citrus thyme
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, heart shaped leaves (green/yellow) on a woody stem
Flavour: strong lemon aroma and mild flavour
Preparation: sweet and savoury
WATERCRESS:
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, rounded pale green leaves on light green stems
Flavour: zesty, slightly bitter
Preparation: use torn into soups, salads, sandwiches or as a garnish
A: A bouquet garni is a bundle of aromatic herbs tied together with string and dropped into soups, stews, stocks and casseroles to add flavour. The bouquet garni allows chefs to capture the flavour of the herbs, while also having the freedom to remove them at any stage of the cooking process. While there is no set recipe, the Bouquet Garni is traditionally known to feature parsley, thyme, bay leaves and possible marjoram- however celery, leeks, carrots and a variety of other herbs are often added into the mix. In fact, the Larousse Gastronomique notes that in ancient times the bouquet garni contained cloves and was wrapped up using a thin slice of lard.
PUMPKIN PATCH
Q: How did pumpkins become associated with Halloween?
While they may have started out as cattle-fodder, nowadays the pumpkin features widely in kitchens due to their versatility, shelf-life and cost-efficiency. To meet year-round demand pumpkins are grown in every state of Australia, however nigh on three quarters of the pumpkins consumed domestically are produced in NSW or QLD. In 2010 the Food Service industry accounted for around 17% of fresh pumpkin sales, that equates to a healthy 16,743 tonnes.
The fruit (or culinary vegetable) that Australian’s refer to as ‘pumpkins’ are actually a mix of pumpkins and winter squash from three different species of the Cucurbita genus: Cucurbita Maxima (Jarrahdale, Queensland Blue, Golden Nugget), Cucurbita Moschata (Butternut Pumpkin, Jap) and Cucurbita Pepo (Sweet Dumpling, Orange Minikin)
Selection: It is the skin of the pumpkin that protects the wonderful orange flesh from deterioration, so avoid any that are scarred, bruised or cracked. Look for a bright, plump pumpkin that is heavy for its size and boasts a thick, hard rind.
CUCURBITA MAXIMA:
QUEENSLAND BLUE:
Availability: all year
Appearance: big, heavy, ribbed, deep blue-grey skin and orange flesh
Characteristics: drier that other varieties, full flavoured
Best for: scones, boiling or baking
JARRAHDALE:
Availability: all year
Appearance: large round variety with light blue/grey skin and a lovely deep yellow-orange flesh
Characteristics: cuts easily, sweet, firm flesh
Best for: baking – very moist therefore doesn’t lend well to boiling
GOLDEN NUGGET:
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, round pumpkin with orange - red, lightly ribbed skin and bright orange flesh
Characteristics: up to 1.5kg/15cm diameter, easily cut – appearance is its main selling point though it has sweet, creamy flesh
Best for: soup or stuffed as a single serve vessel – high seed ratio if you need roasted pumpkin seeds
CUCURBITA MOSCHATA:
BUTTERNUT PUMPKIN: aka Butternut Squash
Availability: available all year but at best in April, Jul-Aug, Dec-Jan
Appearance: elongated pear shape with smooth, golden-brown skin and orange flesh
Characteristics: dense, dry flesh with a lovely smooth texture and nutty flavour – flavour improves with storage – no need to peel
Best for: everything- especially roasting. Butternut is one of the most popular varieties due to its versatility
JAP: aka Ken Special, Kent, Delica
Availability: all year
Appearance: small mottled green/grey pumpkin (1-3kg), yellow to orange flesh
Characteristics: softer and drier than most, cuts easily and boasts a mild, sweet flavour
Best for: stuff, bake, steam, mash
CUCURBITA PEPO:
SWEET DUMPLING:
Availability: all year
Appearance: small pumpkin with white and green stripes and creamy, firm flesh
Characteristics: mildly sweet, honey nut flavour
Best for: perfect for roasting and stuffing
ORANGE MINIKIN: aka baby pumpkin
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, squat pumpkin, with ribbed, orange skin and yellow-light orange flesh
Characteristics: high seed content, ideal for hollowing and using as a single serve vessel
Best for: baking whole and stuffing with a savoury meat or rice filling – soups or roast the seeds
A: Samhain (All Hallows Eve) was believed to be the day that the souls of the departed (good and bad) were free to roam amongst us. It was Celtish tradition on this day to carve ‘Jack-o-Lanterns’ to both welcome the souls of loved ones and ward off unwelcome spirits. Traditionally Jack-o-lanterns were carved from beets, turnips or potato, however when almost ¾ million people fled to America during the Irish potato famine they brought the tradition but not the beets or gourds to carve. Therefore the pumpkin (native to central and south America) became a larger, easily accessible substitute.
LIFE'S LITTLE TREASURES
Q: What is the difference between a baby leek and a pencil leek?
Often in winter, we find pleasure in the oversized; big coats, big coffees, big portions. But bigger isn’t always better, in fact this week we are paying homage to a range of fresh veggies that are desirable because they are small.
Baby vegetable lines have been on the increase in popularity for a number of years. Not only are they more delicate in appearance, but they also tend to have a milder (or sweeter) flavour than their large scale brethren. Versatile and delicious, they are a fantastic addition to the menu as they are both practical and inspirational. So downsize with pleasure and enjoy our range of baby veges this winter:
BABY BEETROOT:
Availability: best May – Nov
Appearance: small purple beetroot with long green and purple leaves similar in texture to spinach
Preparation: use leafy stalks like spinach/silverbeet or purple tuber as per regular beetroot
Flavour: sweeter, more delicate flavour than regular beetroot
Big deal: beyond its more delicate appearance, baby beets are more tender and have a finer texture than regular beetroot
BABY GOLD BEETROOT:
Availability: best May – Nov
Appearance: yellow coloured baby beetroot
Preparation: use leafy stalks like spinach/silverbeet or purple tuber as per regular beetroot- steam or roast to get the most out of their flavour and texture
Flavour: creamy beetroot flavour, though they are earthier and not as sweet red varieties
Big deal: offers a wonderful contrast of colour, more tender and has a finer texture than regular beetroot
BELLA ROSSA CAPSICUM: aka baby red capsicum
Availability: all year
Appearance: small, round, red capsicum- approx 1/3rd of the size of regular capsicum
Preparation: roast, bake, stir-fry, casseroles, salads
Flavour: sweet, crunchy
Big deal: thinner skin than regular caps and perfect for single serve use
BABY CAPSICUM: Vine Sweet
Availability: all year
Appearance: elongated thin caps (approx 6cm)- red, orange or yellow
Preparation: minimal prep needed, use raw in salads or use in casseroles, stews, stir-fries
Flavour: crunchy, sweet and juicy
Big deal: ripened on the vine, full of moist, sweet flavour. Vibrant colour and holds shape well when cooked
DUTCH CARROTS: aka baby carrots
Availability: best Mar - Aug
Appearance: small purple, white, yellow or orange carrots, still attached to the green leaves & sold in bunches
Preparation: perfect for baking, roasting, raw – even for pickling/brining
Flavour: sweet (purple are even sweeter)
Big deal: very tender, dutch carrots are perfect for serving whole as a side dish
GOLFBALL CARROTS:
Availability: Mar - Aug
Appearance: small, orange round ball-shaped carrots with leaves still attached
Preparation: perfect for all types of cooking and roasting
Flavour: sweet, crisp
Big deal: look fantastic on the plate and are fantastic for cooking
CONTINENTAL EGGPLANT: aka baby eggplant, oriental eggplant
Availability: all year- best Jan - Jul
Appearance: thin, long eggplants varying in colour from light green to purple
Preparation: stew, fry, bake or grill
Flavour: moist and succulent, not as acidic as full size eggplant
Big deal: cooks quickly, has a much thinner skin than regular eggplant
BABY FENNEL:
Availability: Mar – Sept
Appearance: small fennel bulbs
Preparation: both leaves and base are edible. Fantastic in Mediterranean dishes, they are compatible with sweet and salty flavours. Think salads, soups, casseroles, fish dishes
Flavour: slightly richer aniseed flavour than regular fennel. Leaves are stronger, base is sweeter and less pungent
Big deal: beautiful flavour coupled with a more delicate appearance on the plate
PENCIL LEEKS:
Availability: Mar - Oct
Appearance: pencil thin, small leeks (different to baby leek which are thicker)
Preparation: often used as a steamed side-dish or chopped into a salad in place of salads onions
Flavour: milder leek flavour
Big deal: more delicate appearance and flavour than large leeks and therefore perfect as a side-dish or salad ingredient
BABY TURNIP:
Availability: May - Oct
Appearance: small white or purple top turnips (approx 5cm)
Preparation: great for salads, roasting, in casseroles, stews etc – or slice into stir-fry
Flavour: can be eaten raw as not as strong as regular turnip- sweet and peppery
Big deal: milder flavour, not as bitter as full grown counterpart
A: It really does come down to a matter of millimeters. Pencil leeks are literally ‘pencil thin’ (approx 7-8mm in diameter), while baby leeks are a touch broader (average 11-15mm in diameter). While it may seem inconsequential, both pencil leeks and baby leeks boast a sweet, subtle onion flavour, this kind of distinction can make all the difference in achieving the desired aesthetic and balance of flavours on the plate.
FRUITS OF THE VINE
Q: What is the French Paradox and what does it have to do with grapes?
In the spirit of the NSW Wine Festival taking place in Hyde Park this weekend, our bulletin this week is dedicated to the world’s fifth largest fruit crop- grapes. While an estimated 71% of grapes are destined to become wine, an impressive 27%, equivalent to around 18 million tonnes, are consumed fresh each year (FAO, 2007).
Home grown grapes are available in Australia from November to May. There are hundreds of varieties available, so many stores categorise them based on their colour and whether they have a seed. However, the different varieties do have slightly different flavours, shapes and textures, so to help you choose the right grape to go with your cheese platter and glass of vino, here’s the lowdown on Aussie grapes.
Selection & Storage:
As a general rule, for a good grape look to the stem. If it is green, firm and well attached then the fruit should be sweet and juicy.
In red and black grapes look for a light white coat on the fruit. This coating is 100% natural and protects the fruit from damage- the less coating, the more handling and longer storage time the grape will have seen. (It is also present on green varieties, but hard to see)
If you see green grapes with an amber hue, snap them up. This indicated they were ripened on the vine for longer and as with tomatoes, the longer the fruit sits on the vine, the better the flavour.
Varieties:
Table grapes have been selectively bred to cater to consumer preferences for sweet, seedless varieties- below are our top 4 in terms of production.
MENINDEE SEASON: early season
Available: Dec - Feb
Colour: light green – yellow
Size/Shape: small to medium oval
Texture: firm flesh
Flavour: sweet, very slightly tart
Seeds: No
THOMPSON SEEDLESS:
Available: Jan - May
Colour: pale golden green
Size/Shape: medium oblong
Texture: delicate skin, firm flesh
Flavour: sweet, juicy
Seeds: no
CRIMSON SEEDLESS:
Available: Feb - May
Colour: light red
Size/Shape: medium oval
Texture: thick skin, crisp flesh
Flavour: neutral, juicy
Seeds: no
RED GLOBE:
Available: Dec - May
Colour: pink-red
Size/Shape: very large, round
Texture: crisp, fleshy
Flavour: very sweet
Seeds: yes
Other varieties worth a mention include:
MUSCAT:
Available: Jan - Apr
Colour: blue- black
Size/Shape: medium round
Texture: firm skin, soft juicy flesh
Flavour: excellent sweet, musky flavour
Seeds: yes
CARDINAL:
Available: Jan - May
Colour: red – purple
Size/Shape: large, round
Texture: soft skin, juicy flesh
Flavour: distinctively sweet
Seeds: yes
FLAME SEEDLESS:
Available: Nov - Mar
Colour: dark red
Size/Shape: medium, round
Texture: crisp, crunchy
Flavour: slightly tart
Seeds: no
RIBIERS: very popular dark grape variety
Available: Feb - May
Colour: black
Size/Shape: large, round
Texture: crisp skin, tender and juicy pulp
Flavour: sweet, tart
Seeds: yes
WALTHAM CROSS:
Available: Apr-May and Nov-Dec
Colour: golden green
Size/Shape: large, oblong
Texture: firm, juicy
Flavour: sweet
Seeds: yes
A: The French Paradox refers to the inconsistency between the high level of saturated fat in the French diet and their low rate of heart disease. It is believed that the French penchant for drinking red wine, helps protects them from the dangers of eating saturated fat.
Studies show that in moderation, red wine reduces blood pressure and other risk factors of heart disease. In particular, the antioxidants contained in grape skin (only used in red wine production) are proven to reduce constriction and blockage of the blood vessels.
FIGS: HIDDEN TREASURES
Q: Why do people call figs a ‘false fruit’?
With all this unseasonal rain, top quality strawberries are going to be thin on the ground for Valentine’s Day. So why not replace them with some fresh NSW figs! Local figs are fantastic quality at the moment, and with a long held reputation as both an aphrodisiac and symbol of romance, they will satisfy foodies and romantics alike.
As fresh figs do not ripen after harvest, pick figs that are heavy and plump with no blemishes and good colour for their variety (see below). Avoid any with a sour smell as they will be over ripe. When they split at the base, they’re ready to serve.
BLACK GENOA: Most common commercial variety in NSW
SHAPE: Med to large , squat and conical
COLOUR: Dark purple skin at maturity, dark red seeds and white flesh
AVAILABILITY : late December to May
PEFORMANCE: Distinctive rich, sweet flavour, stores well. Best for eating fresh or jams
WHITE ADRIATIC:
SHAPE: Med to large, sphere.
COLOUR: The skin is green tinged with amber when ripe. Flesh is a rich , strawberry colour
AVAILABILITY : March to May
PEFORMANCE: All purpose fig with excellent flavour. Peels easily when ripe
BROWN TURKEY:
SHAPE: Med to large, pear shape with prominent ribs and large eye
COLOUR: Thin, brown skin which is a lighter copper colour near the stem, flesh is pink-brown
AVAILABILITY : February to May
PEFORMANCE: Excellent flavour with few seeds- suited to eating fresh
PRESTON PROLIFIC: Originated in VIC, thought to be a Black Genoa seedling
SHAPE: Med to large, sphere
COLOUR: Skin changes from green to a purple brown when ripe. Pulp is amber with a tint of red and the flesh is very thick, creamy white and juicy
AVAILABILITY : February to May
PEFORMANCE: Distinctively sweet
Still not convinced? Here are some Valentine's Day inspirations with fig at their heart:
Arugula with Brûléed Figs, Ricotta, Prosciutto & Smoked Marzipan – Graham Elliot
Duck Breast with figs, burnt honey and lavender sauce – Gourmet Traveller
Figs for a Thousand and One Nights- Nigella Lawson
Fig leaf ice-cream with crushed berries and meringue- Gourmet Traveller
Baci Di Fichi - delicious magazine
A: Figs are all about hidden treasures. What we often refer to as the fruit is actually a synconium (hollow vessel) which holds the delicate flowers and seeds of the plant. In ‘persistent’ figs varieties (i.e. the ones we eat fresh) the flowers are all female and the seeds empty. Whereas dried figs are produced from varieties where the seeds are pollinated, which is how they achieve their nutty flavour.
FOUR SEASONS IN ONE DAY
Q: Are seasonal guides redundant now that many produce lines are available year round?
Despite all evidence to the contrary, February is the last month of Summer and soon the hot, sunny days (we were supposed to have) will begin to give way to cooler Autumn months. Inevitably, the changing of the seasons brings new fashion and food trends, which for chef’s means a revamp of the menu.
So, to help ease the burden of menu planning we thought we would literally give you four seasons in one day and attach our new SG&S seasonal charts to this week’s bulletin. These charts serve as a quick reference guide to the fruit & veges you can expect to see in the markets each month.
These charts are also hosted on the Season’s Best section of our blog, however for those who want something more permanent to keep in their kitchen, contact SG&S and we will issue you with a laminated poster version which covers the full year.
Seasonal supply does vary, with individual lines arriving at the market early, late or in fits and starts due to unexpected weather conditions. So, keep an eye on our weekly buyer’s guide. Posted on our blog each Tuesday, these guides outline the week’s best buys, new season stock and any notable gaps in supply. To receive these updates directly, click on the follow button on the blog homepage and enter your email address.
Happy planning!
A: In short, no! We may not live by the Cordoba Calendar anymore (Google that when your bored!) but knowing your seasonal produce is the best way to serve up a cost-effective and reliable menu- rain, hail or shine. Not only will the fruit and veg you use be abundant and therefore cheaper, it will also be more nutritional and taste better, having been harvested at its peak and spared from travelling long distances.
THE PITS
Q: Where does our Stonefruit come from?
The Australian stone fruit season is underway with early season peaches, nectarines and cherries now available.
Drupes (stone fruits) are fleshy fruits whose seed is encased in a stone at its centre- peaches, nectarines, cherries, plums, apricots (and almonds) all belong to this family. Stone fruit can be broken down into; clingstone, freestone or semi-cling fruits. It is difficult to tell from the appearance of the fruit whether it’s a clinger or a free spirit, so ask your supplier to confirm which they have in stock.
Clingstone:
Stone clings to the fruit at all stages of maturity and needs to be pried off. Good eating but more time consuming to prepare. Best for: jams, jellies, sauces, purees.
Freestone (Slipstone):
Flesh separates easily from the stone allowing for attractive slices to be produced. Freestone are the most popular varieties. Best for: any dish where the appearance of the fruit is important
Semi-cling:
A hybrid of clingstone and freestone, the stone separates from the pit when fully ripe. Tend to be smaller than freestone. Best for: everything, good all-rounder
Peaches and nectarines are the first stone fruits to hit the markets in summer, so here’s the low down on the much loved Persian Apple and its shaved fraternal twin.
Despite the rather common belief that the nectarine is a cross between a peach and a plum, peaches and nectarines are actually the same species. A nectarine is really just a peach whose recessive gene came up trumps in the DNA lottery.
As there are a vast number of peach and nectarine varieties produced in Australia (often with a very short season), it is common practice to group them by the colour of their flesh (i.e. yellow or white) rather than listing the individual variety.
PEACHES:
Yellow flesh:
Most popular varieties in Australia, yellow flesh are usually the first peaches on the market. Tangy and tasty. Availability: September – March
White Flesh:
Season starts slightly later than yellow flesh varieties, though there is an early variety available in October. With less sub-acid varieties, these tend to be a juicy, sweet alternative. Availability: October- March
NECTARINES:
Yellow Flesh:
These have always been more common, though recently white flesh have closed the gap. A mix of sweet and light acid flavours. Availability: November – March
White Flesh:
Hold the acid, these are sweet and fragrant. Availability: November to March
To get the juices flowing, here are some tasty stone fruit recipes from entrée to dessert:
Peach Chicken, lemon rice pilaf:
A: Approximately 100,000 tonnes of summer stonefruit is produced between October and April each year, by over 1200 growers. Early season produce comes from sub-tropical QLD (20% of total production), northern WA and NSW. This is then followed by crops from mid to southern NSW, parts of VIC (Swan Hill) and the Riverland of SA. Fruit from the cooler climates is last to market. Renmark, Swan Hill and the Goulburn Valley (Shepparton and Cobram) represent more than 50% of Australia’s summer stonefruit production, while Tasmania produces all the Australian-grown apricots harvested in mid January to February. Source: Summerfruit Australia