AUTUMN HARVEST
Q: How long is the rain likely to last?
Summer is officially gone and with it go the luscious stonefruits, berries and tomatoes that characterise Sydney’s summer menus. So what can we expect from Autumn 2012?
Sydney’s tropical (read: rainy) summer has taken its toll on local produce (especially ground grown crops- herbs, asian vegetables, tomatoes) however consistent supply from interstate has managed to keep the markets relatively stable. Unfortunately, we are now starting to see poor weather impact interstate products and if the rain continues we can expect to see quality and price issues across the board.
On a positive note all this wet weather has brought the elusive Pine Mushrooms to the markets early, not to mention apple, pears, exotic fruits , cabbage lines and root veg are all looking relatively consistent and are good eating.
AUTUMN FLAVOURS:
APPLES/PEARS/QUINCE:
New season apples, pears and quince are abundant in Autumn with almost all varieties of apple and pear available over the course of the season.
Supply: Expected to be consistent bar a significant storms or hail in the growing regions
Inspiration: Vogue Entertaining + Travel’s Spiced Quince and Pears with baked custard
BEANS:
Beans are a staple of Autumn, with Borlotti, Butter, French, Green, Roman and Snake making an appearance.
Supply: With the rains in QLD/Nth QLD this week the market for beans has turned dramatically with supply very tight and price jumping significantly. With supply directly influenced by the weather we hope to see supply and price improve as the weather clears.
Inspiration: Teage Ezard’s Barbecued ox tongue with southern gold potatoes, snake beans and sticky mustard dressing recipe
CABBAGE:
Hitting the markets earlier than usual, cabbage lines – chinese wombok, red cabbage, Tuscan cabbage – fill the gap left by the slowing lettuce lines.
Supply: Hardier than other ground grown crops, supply should remain consistent. However excessive rain or flooding may cause splitting and as a result supply issues
Inspiration: Jacques Reymond’s Spatchcock & Buttered Cabbage with verjus
EXOTIC FRUITS:
Filling the void of the lush mangoes and berries come the passionfruit, custard apples, breadfruit, persimmon, guava and pomegranates & tamarillos
Supply: Some issues with guava supply at the moment but otherwise looking steady for the season ahead
Inspiration: Kim Woodward’s Butter roasted halibut, lobster salad, coriander pasta and passion fruit sauce
NUTS:
Autumn also sees the return of the fresh nuts- with Australian grown pistachios (NOW), almonds (Feb-Mar), Hazelnuts (Feb-Apr), Peanuts (Feb-June) and Chestnuts (Apr- Jul) on the scene!
Supply: When they hit the markets, they hit in force- though they finish all too quickly
Inspiration: Peter Gilmore’s Caramelised Vanilla Brioche French toast
PUMPKIN:
I recently read a quote that said there were four seasons, Spring, Summer, Pumpkin and Winter. With all lines including Butternut on offer in Autumn, who can blame them.
Supply: Sourced locally, pumpkins are traditionally abundant and great eating for the whole season
Inspiration: Rick Stein’s Pumpkin ravioli with sage butter
ROOT VEG:
Autumn sees the root veg come into their own with sweet potatoes, horseradish, turnip, parsnip and spud varieties (Royal Blue, Ruby Lou, Pontiac, Desiree, Burbank, Purple Congo) all coming into their own.
Supply: While supply should remain consistent, root veg are susceptible to splitting and rot with too much rain – so lets hope for some clear skies.
Inspiration: Bar H’s Sashimi of striped trumpeter with mushrooms and ginger, horseradish and soy dressing
More produce highlights for Autumn: Pine Mushrooms, Celeriac, Fennel, Leeks, Spinach and Silverbeet
A: Unfortunately it may last a while yet. The Bureau of Meteorology is predicting a wetter autumn than average for NSW and SA and a slightly drier season for VIC and TAS. There is a silver lining however, with the BOM describing their outlook model as having ‘low skill over South East NSW’ at this time of year! So you never know, blue skies could be just around the corner.
CHERRIES ON TOP
Q: What does it mean to ‘cherry pick’ something?
This weekend, Young, NSW, the birthplace of the Australian Cherry Industry, is hosting the 62nd National Cherry Festival. First commercially planted in 1878, Young accounts for 60% of the total cherry production in NSW. While NSW and VIC have traditionally been the cherry capitals of Australia, Tassie is hot on their heels as the home of our cherry exports, which is more the pity for us locals as the temperate maritime climate of the island produces lush, large fruit.
A member of the rose family, the majority of eating cherries are classified as either a sweet (Prunus Avium) or sour cherry (Prunus Cerasus). Sweet cherries are believed to have come from a wild cherry once found in the Caspian– Black Sea region, these cherries are delicious both fresh and cooked. Sour varieties can also be eaten fresh but are most often used for cooking, baking and preserving due to their tart flavour.
In recent years, plantations have been established outside traditional growing areas in the hope of prolonging the traditional cherry season which runs from November to February. Similarly to strawberries, a constant supply of cherries is achieved by harvesting different varieties at staggered intervals. To achieve a consistent supply, some states will grow more than 50 different varieties of cherry. It is therefore difficult to compile an exhaustive list, so the table below focuses on the main cherry varieties in NSW, when to look out for them and what to expect.
New Australian selections are starting to make their mark but are not yet commercially strong, keep an eye out for Sir Dom, Sir Tom, Dame Roma, Sir Douglas, Dame Nancy and Sir Hans in coming seasons.
So far, the 2011 season has brought mixed fortunes for Australian cherry growers. Cherries are extremely delicate and rains or high winds at harvest time can spell disaster for growers as they can cause the cherries to split or bruise. While the Yarra Valley, Central and North Eastern VIC are projecting one of their most fruitful season’s in decades (if the weather holds), NSW regions are battling high rains that are already causing some of the bigger fruit to split. While still hopeful, local farmers are warning that NSW markets may see a smaller fruit size this year as a result.
To kick of the season with a bang, here are some inspired cherry recipes to sink your teeth into:
- SAVOURY: Roast Duck with cherries & roast kipfler potatoes
- SWEET: Watermelon, cherry and rose salad, with shortbread, yoghurt & cherry syrup
- PICKLED: Pickled Cherries (have with duck, pork belly or blue veined cheese)
- SLAMMING: Esta Bebida 2
To find out more about the delicious cherry varieties on offer or to place your order contact Simon George & Sons.
A: Cherries don’t ripen after they’ve been picked, so it has always been important to choose your fruit carefully. To cherry pick is to inspect something very closely, so you come out with only the very best. With this in mind, how do you cherry pick a cherry?
A cherry’s colour is highly dependent on variety, so a darker skin will not necessarily be the best indicator of maturity. Instead, look for a cherry that is good and plump, with glossy skin and a nice green stem. Avoid soft, dull or bruised fruit or small hard cherries as they will lack flavour and juice.
A FLOWER FOR EVERY OCCASION
Q: Are there any flowers that are better left off the plate??
The food service industry is just as vulnerable to ‘trending’ as fashion retail or twitter. While we may not update our dining habits as regularly as we tweet, social trends undeniably influence what appears on the menu.
Edible flowers are a prime example of how cultural trends can popularise an ingredient, whether that ingredient is something altogether new or rediscovered by a new generation. More than ever, consumers are actively seeking out food venues that showcase fresh, natural ingredients with a traceable history. The reasons vary; some want assurance that their food is chemical/hormone free, others want to support local farmers, while some just believe that fresh tastes best. Either way, chefs are increasingly under pressure to deliver top quality meals, that look the part, taste the part and play a part in the bigger picture. Edible flowers answer this cultural shift towards natural, sustainable, fresh ingredients, while offering chefs a simple means of adding colour, flavour and texture to their dish.
Simon George & Sons sells a wide range of edible flowers from Flowerdale Sprout Farm in Victoria. Flowerdale Sprout Farm has been producing top quality hydroponic sprouts since 1982 and diversified into edible flowers about five years ago. Grown outdoors, in a chemical free environment and picked by hand, their edible flowers have a good shelf life with many varieties available all year round.
BORAGE: aka Syrian Star, Starflower
Availability: September - April
Appearance: Star-shaped vivid blue and pure white flowers
Flavour: light cucumber, oyster flavour
Best for: Cocktails and drinks, garnish, herb salad or green leaf salad, stuffing for pastas, freezing in ice-cubes, candied cake decorations, cold soups and dips
Background: Believed to have originated in Syria, the use of Borage flowers can be traced back to Ancient Greek Mythology, when Helen of Troy was given them to help relieve her sorrow. Borage flowers and leaves were traditionally used as a garnish in Pimms, though this is mostly replaced with mint or cucumber.
Geranium: aka Regal Gem
Availability: September - April
Appearance: Available in white, pink, red and yellow
Flavour: Each variety is slightly different but generally citrusy
Best for: Desserts, cakes, jellies, teas
Background: A native of South Africa, this particular variety is a specialty line sold by Flowerdale. Geranium is actually an incorrect labelling of this flower which is actually called a Pelargonium
MARIGOLD: aka Monsoon Gold
Availability: September- April
Appearance: 100 petticoat petals, yellow, orange, white and red
Flavour: Anise
Best for: Garnish, add colour to salads, as a replacement for saffron.
Background: Originally from South East Europe, the common English name ‘Mary’s Gold’ was once exclusively used to describe Calendula, which is a sister species.
NASTURTIUM: aka Amazon Empress
Availability: September - April
Appearance: Available in a variety of sunset colours including red, orange and yellow. Soft, fragile with bright petals
Flavour: Spicy- crisp peppery taste
Best for: Garnish, salads, stir-fries, cure in vinegar
Background: Native to Central and South America, Nasturtium is the common name for a genus of stunning ornamental plants. It’s name literally means ‘nose twister’. The leaves, with their stronger flavour, are a particularly interesting addition to a green or herb salad.
ROSE PETAL: aka Turkish Delight
Availability: September – April
Appearance: All the stunning colours and fragrances of the rose family are here in varying intensities
Flavour: Aromatic, slightly sweet
Best for: Desserts, Turkish delight, cocktails, salads, syrups
Background: Make sure to remove the bitter white base of the petal before use. Flavour will be strongest in darker varieties.
PANSY: aka Vivid Velvet
Availability: All Year
Appearance: Available in a variety of colours, the pansy has large petals and a downward facing flower
Flavour: Mildly grassy, subtly sweet (blues & yellows most fragrant). The petals are mild, however if you eat the whole flower is has a stronger green overtone.
Best for: Garnish, salads, fruit salads, desserts, soups
Background: Derived from the viola family, the Pansy received its name from the French ‘pensee’ meaning thought. It is believed it was given this name due to the down- turned face of the flower resembling a person bowed in thought.
SNAPDRAGON: aka Summer Smile
Availability: September - April
Appearance: A stunning flower that appears like a mouth opening
Flavour: Distinct melon flavour, though can sometimes be a little bitter
Best for: Garnish
Background: Named due to its resemblance to a dragon opening and closing its mouth.
VIOLA: aka Merry Melody
Availability: All Year
Appearance: Variety of colours with heart shaped leaves
Flavour: Sweet, perfumed and grassy
Best for: Stuffing poultry or fish, garnish, salads, fruit salads, cocktails, punch, desserts
Background: There are around 400-500 viola species worldwide.
We also have a limited edition range that are well worth a sample.
- Pink Ballerina (variety of Fuschia)
- Chive Flowers
- Elderflowers
- Geraniums
To find out more or to request a sample of the edible flowers featured above, please contact Simon George & Sons.
A: We eat flowers all the time (broccoli and cauliflower to name a few) but when it comes to serving up finer blooms such as the ones listed above, it is important to note that not all flowers are edible (and even if they are you may not want to eat them as they can cause stomach irritation or simply taste revolting) so it’s best to stick to the varieties approved for consumption. For example, Borage is a wonderful edible flower but is not recommended for consumption in large doses by pregnant or lactating women. The Daylily is widely used in Chinese cuisine but is not currently approved for consumption by the Food Authority of Australia and New Zealand.
It is also important to note that the impact of pesticides or pollution on consumed flowers has not been evaluated, therefore it is not recommended to eat flowers unless the plant has been grown under controlled conditions for the purpose of consumption.
For best flavour, it is recommended that you remove the stamens and pistils from flowers before use. It is also recommended to remove the sepal, with the exception of pansies and violas as the sepal actually adds to the flavour.
BOIL 'EM, MASH 'EM, STICK 'EM IN A STEW
Q: How do you prolong the shelf life of potatoes?
They may be getting a bad rap from peppy, anti-carb personal trainers the world over at the moment, but the humble ‘taiter’ is still one of the most versatile and cost-effective foods on the market. Yet another successful member of the Nightshade family, potatoes are the world’s largest vegetable crop and fourth largest food crop, with over 330 million tonnes produced worldwide in 2009. While consumption varies per region and the latest fad diet, the average global citizen consumes 33kg of the starchy tuber every year.
There are thousands of potato varieties, hundreds of which are edible, with more being developed all the time. Commercial varieties are categorised and bought in a number of ways; whether they are washed or brushed, size, texture and/or specific variety.
Washed potatoes are efficient, no washing on site means less man hours and a shiny skin on arrival. The washed potatoes sold by Simon George & Sons are mostly Coliban which is a tasty, all rounder which is available in a variety of sizes. Varieties can vary under the ‘washed’ banner and all potatoes can be pre-washed or peeled on request. Meanwhile, the ever faithful Sebago represents for the ‘dirty brushed’ and ‘chipped’ category. Keeping the dirt on the skin helps protect the potato from moisture and light, which prolongs shelf life and balances the effort involved in washing at a later date.
Size matters when it comes to potatoes. Cocktails and Chat potatoes are bought purely on size, not variety. When you buy these sizes, you can expect washed, all-rounders that have white skin and flesh. The main size classifications you will see for spuds include:
- Large
- Medium (Table)
- Small (Chat)- over 70grams but smaller than medium (table)
- Cocktail Chat - under 70grams, usually 2-3cm in diameter
The texture of the spud is determined by the amount of starch in the potato and therefore directly influences its preparation. Textures range from waxy to floury, with all-rounders falling somewhere in-between:
- Waxy- less starch (16-18%) and higher moisture, therefore best for salads, stews, soups or anything where you want the potato to hold shape
- All Rounder: Are neither definitively waxy or floury and therefore tend to be good for most types of cooking.
- Floury/Starchy: higher starch (20-22%) and less moisture. Release starch when boiled or fried, therefore best for baking in skins and mashing as they fluff up beautifully. If you want to whip up freedom fries or a salad with floury varieties, they will need to be soaked first.
As there are so many different types of potatoes available, we have broken them down into something more palatable:
Needless to say we haven’t included every potato in the list above. Other spud favourites that deserve a mention are:
- Waxy: Patrone, Bintje, Ruby Lou
- All Rounder: Golden Delight, Red Rascal, Spunta, Toolangi Delight
- Floury: Russet Burbank, Kennebec
To discuss these and other tasty potato varieties, contact Simon George & Sons on (02) 9519 1411.
A: Potatoes are a demanding lot when it comes to storage. To maximise shelf life and ensure they don’t darken when cooking, they should be stored in a cool (not cold), dry, dark environment with good airflow and no onions! (When onions and potatoes are stored together, they release gases that can cause rot.) Check stock regularly and remove any that are soft, shrivelled or sprouting, like bad apples they will taint the lot.
Also, watch for ‘greening’. To maximise the tubers chance of producing more potato plants, they contain low levels of toxic chemicals (glycoalkaloids) which deter predators from eating the tuber when unearthed. If a potato is exposed to light or damaged, it triggers this protective measure and the production of glycoalkaloids increases. At their most potent in the sprouts, these chemicals can cause anything from food poisoning to death. Green spots on the skin (greening) are a good indicator of light exposure and are therefore a warning sign of toxicity. While all green potatoes won’t kill you, it’s best to toss them.
AUSTRALIAN GARLIC
Q: How do I get that rich, pungent garlic flavour?
The first boxes of Australian Garlic are appearing at the Sydney Markets and though the season wont be in full swing for another 3-4 weeks, it is a welcome sight for chefs and foodies.
Garlic was introduced to Australia by early European migrants and in the 70s and 80s the local industry was growing steadily. This changed in the 1990s when cheap Chinese garlic begin to flood the Australian market and despite its smaller size and significantly lower quality, it hamstringed local farmers who couldn’t compete on price. Nowadays, local product accounts for only 10-20% of the garlic consumed in Australia, a very small piece of a big garlicky pie, with Australians putting away approximately 3,500 tonnes of fresh garlic each year.
Recently there has been a renewed interest in sourcing locally grown garlic due to its freshness and fuller flavour. To allow for import, garlic produced overseas is treated with various chemical pesticides and growth retardants. Between these treatments and the time it takes to reach our shores, imported garlic tends to have a less intense flavour and spongy texture.
The Australian garlic season runs from October to May with the main growing regions being SA, VIC ,NSW with some early crops from QLD.
There are a number of white, pink and purple garlic varieties available which can be grouped into either the hard or soft necked categories. Soft necked varieties are stalkless with large bulbs. The most common varieties, their flavour ranges from very mild to very hot and lack the subtle but more complex flavors of the hardneck varieties. Hard-necked varieties have a hard stalk, are smaller than soft-necked varieties and have fewer but larger cloves that are easier to peel.
There is a lot of confusion in the market over the names of garlic varieties being produced in Australia, but here are some of the more widely recognizable varieties.
Printanor:
When: Mid Season
What: Soft neck originally from France, this is now one of the most popular varieties in Australia and NZ. Medium to large, it is white with 15-20 cloves per bulb. Stores well and has a rich flavour
Australian White:
When: Mid Season
What: Californian type, large white bulb and cloves- selected in SA
California Late:
When: Late Season
What: Soft neck variety from cooler states- stores well. Dark pink skin with large bulb and lots of small cloves
Italian White:
When: Mid Season
What: Older soft neck variety that is medium to large and white-cream. It stores well and has 10-20 cloves
Italian Pink:
When: Early season
What: Medium sized hard-neck variety with thin pink-purple skin. Stores well.
Elephant/Russian Garlic:
When: Mid-Late Season
What: Not a true garlic, this is closer to a leek and has a mild flavour. It has a large solid bulb and can be baked/roasted and included in a dish whole.
Mouliner:
When:Mid Season
What: Large white bulbs that are quite symmetrical, many predict this will soon be nipping at the heels of Printanor
Glenlarge:
When: Early Season
What: Hard necked QLD selection with well-formed white bulbs that have a slight purple tinge. 6-12 cloves per bulb.
TRENDS TO WATCH:
Spring Garlic: (Available October)
Flavour: Mild garlic taste
Use: Entire plant. Just trim root ends and the tough parts of the green leaves.
Background: Harvested before the bulb is formed. Look for specimens with fresh green tops (no dried ends or soggy leaves).
Green Garlic: (Available November)
Flavour: Mild- stronger than green onion but milder than mature garlic
Use: Entire bulb- skin and all. Just trim root ends and the tough parts of the green leaves.
Background: Green garlic is pulled prematurely when the stalk is fully green and the bulb has only a hint of cloves.
Garlic Shoots:
Flavour: Mild garlic flavour, less pungent.
Use: Edible part is the stem, used in stir fries, soups or as a garnish
Background: Usually imported into Australia. These should be 10-20cm long and have no sign of bulb swelling
A: The key to a rich garlic flavour is freshness. Similarly to wasabi, the flavour and aroma of garlic is caused by the chemical reaction that takes place when its cells are broken down. This flavour is at its most intense shortly after the reaction takes place, therefore it is best not to prepare garlic too far in advance.
Different methods of cooking also influence the flavour of garlic. To achieve an intense garlic taste, the maximum amount of oil needs to be released; therefore pressing, crushing and mincing are the best means of preparation to get this result. Meanwhile, chopping is good for stir fries and slicing is good for bringing that light garlic flavour to your dish.
HOW DO YOU LIKE THEM APPLES?
Q: How is it possible to have apples readily available for most of the year?
Far from being a ‘forbidden fruit’ there are 2.6 billion apples grown in Australia each year, with the majority being consumed domestically. In recent years the most dominant varieties have been Granny Smith and Pink Lady™, which between them accounted for approximately 55% of total production. However like any food, trends come and go, so here is an overview of the top varieties and what they’re good for.
Pink Lady™ (Cripps Pink): Crisp, fine sweet flesh.
Best for: Cooking(salads, sauces and pies) due to the high sugar content
Background: Cross between Golden Delicious and Lady Williams. To be sold as Pink Lady™ it must meet quality standards set out by the Dept of Agriculture and Food, WA.
Granny Smith: Crisp tart, tangy flavour that gets sweeter as it matures
Best for: Baking, freezing, salads, sauces and pies.
Background: An Australian native discovered in 1868 by “Granny” Anne Smith of Ryde, NSW. One parent is believed to be the French crab apple.
Royal Gala: Juicy and aromatic- slightly sweeter than Delicious apples
Best for: Sauces but is also tasty fresh and in salads
Background: Royal Gala and Gala originated in NZ in the 1930s as a cross between Kidd’s Orange Red and Golden Delicious.
Jonathan: Tangy (mixture of sweet and acid)
Best for: Snacking (early season only) and all purpose cooking
Background: Old fashioned eating variety from the US
Golden Delicious: Sweet and rich
Best for: Eating fresh and baking
Background: Originated in 1912 in West Virginia, USA.
Red Delicious: Refreshing mild sweetness
Best for: Salads and desserts
Background: Originated in Iowa, USA in the early 1870’s
Jonagold: Sweet and juicy
Best for: Cooking- hot or cold dishes.
Background: Originated in New York State in 1968 as a cross between Jonathan and Golden Delicious.
Fuji: Crisp and juicy with sweet honey tones
Best for: Eating fresh, baking and stewing
Background: Fuji originated in Japan where it is a major variety.
Braeburn: Sharp, sweet and juicy
Best for: Desserts and cooking (baking, sauces and salads)
Background: Originated in NZ in the 1950s and is now hugely popular worldwide, thought to be a cross between a Lady Hamilton and Granny Smith.
Sundowner ™ (Cripps Red): Sweet and distinctive
Best for: Eating fresh, also good for baking as it keeps its shape
Background: Cripps Red (sold as Sundowner™) is related to Pink Lady™ and is a cross between Golden Delicious and Lady Williams. Originated in WA.
Seasonal Calendar:
Picking Time 
Available in Store
Source: Aussie Apples
A: Controlled atmosphere storage enables apple growers to store their fruit for long periods without deterioration in freshness and flavour. Much the same as cold storage (i.e. regulated temperature and humidity) controlled atmosphere storage slows the ripening process even further by reducing oxygen and increasing carbon dioxide levels in the air. Early forms of this were used by the Romans who used limestone caves (with high Carbon Dioxide levels) in France to the same effect.